Stuff You Should Know - Selects: How Champagne Works
Episode Date: May 7, 2022Sure we can all agree that champagne is probably the greatest thing humans have or ever will invent, but how much do we understand how it's made? Learn all about it in this classic episode.See omnystu...dio.com/listener for privacy information.
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Hey, I'm Lance Bass, host of the new iHeart podcast Frosted Tips with Lance Bass.
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Hey everyone, it's Josh and for this week's Select, I've chosen our 2017 episode,
How Champagne Works. It's a charming little episode that, fair warning, will almost certainly
make you want a glass of champagne. Unless you're Chuck, though I suspect he secretly did too.
Enjoy.
Welcome to Stuff You Should Know, a production of iHeart radio.
Hey and welcome to the podcast. I'm Josh Pierre Clark. There's Charles Jock Bryant.
Jerry. Oh, nice. Roland. Are we allowed to tell everyone your last name, Jerry?
We've done it before. Okay. What if they go try to find our Facebook and find out she doesn't
actually exist? It's all just a plant fake Facebook page that we've created.
Oh no, that she is an actual plant that grows in the corner.
Feed me. I am worried about this one. I'm just going to go ahead and say it.
Oh, why? You were worried about the wine one for the same reasons?
We didn't do the wine one. I know. That's why. That's exactly why.
Is it the same reason? Exactly for those reasons.
Totally fine, man. No one knows anything about champagne.
People spend lifetimes learning this stuff.
Yes, but we have a show and everyone knows that we don't spend a lifetime learning about
what we talk about, that we just do our research and we try to find the most interesting stuff
to explain how something works. I know, but anytime it's something where
someone is such a huge, where it's such a big thing for so many people,
I just know we're going to mess up pronunciation since French.
So champagne. Champagne. I think that's how Bugs Bunny always pronounced it.
Oh yeah? Yeah. So you're following a grand tradition.
I didn't know he was a drinker. Well, we are going to talk about champagne.
It's a little late now. Do you like champagne? I love champagne.
Oh, okay. Love it. I don't.
I mainly drink sparkling wine. I don't really drink champagne itself,
but buddy, this article made me want to drink some champagne.
Well, you do a little Prosecco, a little Cava?
Sure. I don't really discriminate. Okay.
I do. I don't drink any of it. You don't like champagne, huh?
No, I don't like sparkling wine. It's not for Chuck, as they say.
I got you. I love it, man. I particularly love chandon out in California.
I will say one time at a party, though, many years ago, like in the 90s,
I drank a lot of just champagne, only champagne.
This might be why you don't like champagne.
For the only time in my life. No, I actually felt like a 12-year-old girl.
That was wonderful. Oh, that's your problem. No, champagne is...
No, no, no. I mean, silly and bubbly and fun,
like I played hopscotch and stuff like that.
Yeah, I know. That's terrible. Why would you ever want to do that again?
I don't mean I felt like a girl because I was drinking champagne.
That's what I thought you meant. I was like, well, there's your problem.
Champagne's not a girly drink. No, no, no.
I'm sure there's plenty of people out there who do think that.
Buddy, I will drink pink champagne with your finger up at a bullfight.
Oh, gross. You got to do something to wash the pain away.
Yeah, it's just not for me. That gave me such a bad headache the next day.
I didn't go back to the well. If someone wants to toast me, I won't go.
No, I'm not drinking that. Well, you were probably drinking pretty sweet
champagne, weren't you? I don't remember.
Usually, the higher the sugar content in anything, the more of a hangover you're going to have.
Yeah, well, I don't know.
Well, I love it. Good.
You mean I've been to Shandong twice? Okay.
Went on Shandong cruise once? Wow.
Big fans of Shandong. Where is that?
Hint, hint. It's out in Napa, Napa Valley.
It's famously attached to Moet and Shandong,
and then Shandong went and said, hey, we're going to open up something in California too.
Gotcha. Cool. Because their terroir is going to be beat.
It's got good terroir, and that's another thing too.
This is what I'm nervous about. I'm not nervous about getting it wrong.
I'm nervous about coming across like it's just a complete jackass sophisticate.
I'm not at all. I just like champagne. I know more now about champagne doing this
research for the last couple of days than I ever had before.
So I definitely don't put myself out there as an expert in any way, shape, or form.
All right. So that's called... Everybody, put your emails away.
10 minutes of caveats by Josh and Chuck.
See, that was French, and you pronounced it great.
Cavite.
It's that Latin.
All right. Well, I guess if you don't know anything about champagne,
you might have noticed that we already said both the word champagne and sparkling wine.
I think most people probably know this, but some people may not.
Champagne is a region in France, and technically, you were only supposed to say
champagne for sparkling wine if it comes from that region.
Right. So all champagne that's sparkling wine is sparkling wine,
but all sparkling wine is not champagne.
That's right.
That I think that simplifies.
All right. In champagne itself, the region is about an hour and a half,
90 minutes or so, northeast of Paris.
Or east.
And this article points out that it's one of the least visited regions of France,
but I bet they have their fair amount of enthusiasts that go to the region.
I would get so sure.
But maybe just not as many. I don't know.
It's the south of France or other Burgundy, maybe.
Right. Well, Burgundy comes to mind for sure.
Yeah.
Apparently, chablis. I didn't realize that that was a wine-growing region, did you?
I don't think I did, in the very famous Mad Dog region.
Right.
Eleanatrin.
So silly.
So champagne is a region. It's also a sparkling wine.
But yeah, like you said, you can't make sparkling wine outside of this champagne region.
And you can even make sparkling wine inside of the champagne region.
And unless you're following a very strictly controlled process
within this particular region of France,
you are not allowed anywhere in the world to call your sparkling wine champagne.
It's what's called an appellation...
Appellation... No, that's a mountain range.
It's what's called a...
Appellation trail.
Appellation de origine contrôle, or AOC is what we're going to call it.
But it's basically the same thing with bourbon here in the United States, right?
Yeah.
Where you have to follow specific rules and you have to make it within a specific region.
And the whole point is, it's...
You don't want just any schmo making something that's similar to your product,
but not nearly as good.
That's not going through anywhere near the painstaking amount of process
and labor that you're doing, and still call it the same thing you're calling it.
You don't want to do that.
Yeah, so you have to restrict it.
Especially neither French, you know, they're not going to be all willy-nilly about that.
That's their region.
Yeah, apparently there's something like 84,000 acres, which I don't think is a lot.
And what are those cities?
The two main cities are Rem and Epernais.
But we even have a thing in here that says, if you say Rem, then you're an American city slicker.
If you say Reims.
Oh, okay.
Rem, I've seen plenty.
Reims is what they say in the Help Me Out article that we got.
I think you just earned some fans in France with that one.
Well, by any other name, it is still Champagne and those are the cities.
And there are, but three grapes that you can use to make Champagne.
You can't just say, oh, that muscadine looks nice like they do here in Georgia.
Right.
Let's throw it in a bottle and ferment it.
Yeah.
Here, Peaty, put this in your mouth, chew it and spit it up in the bottle.
There are three grapes and they are the Pinot Noir grape, the Chardonnay grape.
And how do you pronounce that last one?
Pinot Mognier, which is another dark grape or red grape or black grape, I think, is what they call it.
Yeah, if you ever talk to a real wine person and you don't know the lingo,
you're going to be confused quick when they say things like black grapes.
Right.
You'll be like, what the heck is a black grape?
But if you dig into it, you start to find that there's a lot of overlap in words.
There's a lot of multiple terms that describe the same thing.
Yeah.
Black grape, red grape, same thing.
Yeah.
You know?
Purple grape.
Why not?
If you say that, you're going to get laughed out of Napa.
I like the purple grapes.
Concord, I think, is what they're called.
But Chardonnay is of those three is the only all-white grape.
So, and you know, a lot of people might not know this.
It's the same with still wine, but you know, inside that black skin is white pulp.
Yeah, depending on when you pick the grape.
Yeah.
So, if you pick it early before it has a chance to turn reddish,
you can conceivably squeeze clear or white grape juice from red or black grapes.
That's right.
And that's what's happening in the case of champagne.
Yeah, because if you look at it, you're like, well, I mean, this is clear.
How is this made from red grapes?
Well, as we'll see later on, you have Dom Perignon, I think.
Well, we should go ahead and talk about that, I guess.
Well, let's talk about champagne a little bit first, and then we'll get to Dom Perignon.
So, the region itself is pretty ancient.
The first vineyards in Champagne were planted by the Romans, who also mine chalk in the area.
And there's extensive chalk quarries that are underground that have served as
champagne sellers for generations.
So, the place has been making wine.
The region has been making wine for millennia, but it wasn't until about the 1600s, 1700s,
when they really kind of took what was a naturally occurring problem,
which was carbonation happening in their wine, and went to town with it.
They said, if you can't beat them, join them.
So, they took this thing that was viewed as a flaw in their wine,
carbonation-sparkling wine, and they figured out how to make it even more so,
and made it its own thing.
Yeah, and in that region, that chalk is very key to what you end up getting,
because it's very reflective, because it's white.
It is, so it reflects the sunlight from the ground back up to the leaves, right?
Yeah, it's a very unique region, and apparently it's...
If you stumbled upon that region today in our advanced wine-making techniques,
and sparkling wine techniques, you probably wouldn't say,
hey, this is a great place to have a vineyard.
Right, you go, sacra bleu, the soil is terrible.
Well, you might, because I think it's a little tougher to grow.
There's a very fine line between getting a successful harvest in that region,
which makes it, I think, very special.
Yeah, it does.
Apparently, they have cold, short, wet growing seasons,
and apparently, that's where the original sparkling wine and champagne came from.
It was a freak of natural climate, and natural conditions, growing conditions, right?
Because, as we'll see, a second fermentation is what creates the carbonation,
and that would happen naturally, because they would harvest the wine,
make wine, store it, and then it would get cold all of a sudden, like early,
before the fermentation process was done.
Right.
So, fermentation would basically stop,
but then there'd be a lot of sugar and yeast left in their wine
that hadn't fermented when they started it.
So, when spring came around again, and things started to warm up,
a second fermentation process started, and that's really what kicked off the bubbles.
But for a long time, the people in Champagne, in the Champagne region,
were tearing their hair out, because they didn't want this.
It was a sign that their wine was terrible, or poorly made.
And like I said, it wasn't until Don Perignon came along, who didn't like it himself,
but was one of the people who created a lot of the techniques that helped
establish champagne as the sparkling wine capital of the world.
So, he didn't care for it?
No, he didn't, he called it mad wine, I think is what he called it.
He was a monk though, right?
Yeah, he was a Benedictine monk in the area, he was the cellar master,
which is, if you are a cellar master, you are in charge, as far as Champagne goes,
with basically making the master blend of the Champagne.
Are you talking about the couvet?
Yes, the couvet.
And when you put it together, that's the assemblage, right?
That's right.
So, Don Perignon was the guy in charge of that for this Abbey.
He was a monk.
His name was Pierre Perignon.
Dom is like, do you know what you're a monk?
A Benedictine monk.
And he was one of the ones who established a lot of the groundwork for
creating sparkling wine, creating champagne.
Very interesting.
Like up to that point, you would have sparkling wines in your cellar,
but they were using wood and hemp to stop these bottles.
Well, that didn't work all that well.
Bottles were very frequently explode, and cellars were very dangerous places to be,
because one of these stoppers came out, it shoot across the room,
hit another bottle, and that bottle stopper would come out,
and all of a sudden you'd have a chain reaction of these wooden stoppers flying at your head.
It's like a Bugs Bunny cartoon.
Yeah, or three Stooges or something, right?
So Dom Perignon came up with the idea of using cork stoppers in thicker English-type bottles,
which could withstand the pressure, holding them down with little rope mussels.
Now we use foil and wire.
Yeah, what's that called?
A muzzle.
Yeah, a muzzle.
There's a French word for it, but I can't find it in my notes.
Mose.
Something like that.
So he came up with a bunch of stuff.
He also was the first one to start blending wines from the region.
And as we'll talk about in a few, that's the basis of champagne.
It's a blend.
Champagne is a blend of wine.
That's right.
Should we take a break, collect ourselves?
Yeah, I'm getting excited.
Don't you want some champagne?
Nope.
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Really?
No, I mean, if you opened a bottle of champagne in here, I would drink a flute.
Yeah.
Because, A, it's rude when you're offered something to turn your nose up at it.
Right, unless you're under 21.
And B, it might help me to relax a little bit about this thing.
Yeah, it really would.
You'd feel great.
Should we talk a little bit about the champagne method?
Yes.
What the French call?
La méthode champagne was.
Okay.
La méthode champagne was.
You have to say it.
You have to close your septum.
This is one reason why champagne is a bit more expensive, or can be a bit more expensive,
is because there's a lot of processes involved.
And not like there's not with still wine, but champagne kind of takes it a step further.
It's time consuming, and there are people's hands and feet involved a lot of times.
Yeah, and like you said, it starts with making wine.
Actually, it starts even further back than that.
It starts with growing the grapes.
That's right.
But fermentation, all wines are fermented, of course, and that's when sugar breaks down
from the grape juice, turns it into alcohol, delicious, delicious alcohol.
And that is called wine.
And just like regular wine, still wine, like you said, I guess we shouldn't call it regular wine.
Just still wine.
Still wine.
Basic wine.
They start with those grapes.
And in the case of champagne, they are pressed with human feet, which still happens.
And I can't help but think of that video still after all these years.
That poor lady.
That poor lady.
Yeah.
At Chateau Elan, right?
Oh, was that in Georgia?
Yeah.
It was a Georgia Morning Show, Atlanta Morning Show.
I think it was like Fox Live or something like that.
I can still hear it.
I haven't seen it in years, but if you don't know what we're talking about,
there was one of the early viral videos of this woman on location doing a story about wine in Georgia.
And she was stomping on the wine.
Felt on a platform for some reason.
Yeah.
And she fell out of the barrel and hurt herself.
It sounded like she was in very much heavy distress.
New dimensions of pain are the sounds that the woman made.
I've never heard anything like it before or since.
Me neither.
I'm pretty sure she was okay.
Yeah, that's why I don't mind talking about it now.
It's not like she was maimed for life or anything like that.
I always think I love Lucy too.
Oh yeah?
That very famous grape stomping scene.
Where she gets in a grape throwing fight with the lady.
Man, Lucy, she was always getting into trouble, wasn't she?
I was shot in the studio where they filmed that show one time in California right there in Hollywood.
Yeah, it was kind of neat.
One of the grips just came over.
He was like, you know, this is the I Love Lucy studio.
I smelled the grapes.
All right, so where were we?
Feet.
Feet.
Yeah, which is this wonderful old world technique that I didn't know this.
I didn't know that you have to do that for champagne.
Is it just because it's so delicate?
Yeah, I think that's part of it.
But also they kind of shy away from machinery and the method champagne was.
Really?
Yes.
It's a traditional method.
Even though if you look back at the history of winemaking, champagne is very relatively new.
Oh yeah?
Like we're talking 1600s, 1700s, right?
They've been making wine for many thousands of years.
So this is a fairly new invention,
but it was still invented at a time where you mainly used human labor for things like this.
So yeah, they've tended to preserve that as much as possible.
All right.
Well, you've got your juice, your white juice,
and well, they put it in stainless steel vats unless you're super old world, I guess.
Some people do use wood still, but yeah, you're allowed to use for the initial fermentation,
like you're just making the basic wine.
Yeah.
You can use stainless steel.
Yeah, so there it sits for a long time,
ferments become still wine,
and like we said, this is just the first fermentation,
and then you move on to the blending,
which is where that all important cellar master comes in.
Right, so if you're a cellar master for a champagne house,
you are, unless you're a very specific type of champagne house,
where you actually make champagne from growing the grapes to the finished product,
you are probably going around the champagne region,
trying different wines, still wines,
and you're coming up within your head a blend of all these different wines,
and that blend, as we said before, is called the couvet,
and the couvet is just that.
It's a blend of wine,
and it has mainly three different factors involved
that you have to take into consideration if you're the cellar master, right?
Yes.
It's a vintage couvet, a vintage blend of wines,
and that means it's using grapes that were all grown in the same year,
the same growing season.
Yeah, and I imagine these cellar masters,
I mean, you said they're tasting things, I'm sure they are,
but I imagine these cellar masters in champagne also kind of know exactly
where they're going to go for most of these.
Sure, and they also would know like,
well, if you guys have 2007 vintage wine,
like that was a great year,
or that year was kind of rough,
it might take an add a neat edge to some other 2009 grapes I'm using too, right?
Yes.
These are what these people are walking around with in their heads,
that kind of, that level of information.
So they're putting it all together.
They come up with these clever little blends,
and each blends a couvet.
Again, one of the things they can take into account is the vintage, the years.
Yeah, and like you said, if it's a vintage wine,
it's just from the one year growing season.
If it's non-vintage, that means you're combining various years.
Typically vintage wines, I think, tend to be more expensive.
I get the impression that they tend to be a little more revered.
They definitely take longer to mature.
Yeah, the fermentation process is longer than the non-vintage.
And you'll see this on the label.
It'll say vintage or else it'll say envy a lot of times.
Right.
Two other things for a cellar master to take into account are the varietals.
Yeah.
And the crew, right?
Yeah, CRU.
So a crew is...
Not the C-R-E-W.
Or the C-R-U-E with an umla over the U.
Rock on.
Yes.
The crew is, it's a vineyard basically.
So you can have grapes all from one vineyard from different years and different varietals.
And that'd still be what's called a single crew.
Or you could mix different crews, different vineyards,
grapes to create a couvet.
Yeah.
And the Grand Crew, you might have seen that before on a bottle.
That's a...
If you get the Grand Crew status, then you're really cooking with gas,
as my dad used to say.
In the mid-1980s...
Well, initially there were only 12 villages that had that Grand Crew status.
And then in 1985, they expanded that to 17.
Because five more villages, and I'm not going to try and pronounce all those,
we're added to the list.
And it says here that less than 9%,
it's incredibly low, of all the vineyard land in Champaign
has a 100% Grand Crew rating.
Right.
So again, 84,000 acres, only 9% of that is the top rated...
Basically it's saying this land is the primo land for growing Champaign grapes.
So if you get grapes that are grown there,
by these people who really know what they're doing,
you're going to pay through the nose for it.
Sure.
So a Grand Crew Champaign is going to be pretty expensive,
but there's a reason behind it.
Yeah.
It's not just marketing.
No.
And varietals too.
Like you said, there's three grapes, right?
Just those three.
And depending on how you put them together,
you can come up with a type of cuve as well, right?
So blanc de blanc means white of whites,
that's made just with Chardonnay grapes.
Blanc de noir is made with just one of the other black grapes,
either the Pinot Mounier or the Pinot noir.
That's right.
But all those three things are factored together to create a specific cuve.
Well, and then you've got your rosé that you mentioned earlier.
Oh, yeah.
Your pink wine, or as my friend Stacy calls it, pink crack.
It's good stuff.
She gets ahold of that stuff.
Watch out.
Yeah.
And that is...
Well, there are a couple of ways you can do this.
Sometimes you leave some of the skin for a little bit of time,
but these days, more or less,
you're going to be adding a little bit of the red wine,
Pinot noir red wine to the cuve.
So I think those are different.
Like the still wine.
That's different.
If you leave the grapes on a little bit,
you're going to have pink champagne.
If you actually add red wine afterward,
you're going to have rosé champagne.
What's the difference?
It says here rosé is also known as pink champagne.
I know.
That's what I'm saying.
It's confusing because you definitely get different things
from different sources,
but I have seen in multiple places that when you add red wine,
that's rosé and that keeping the grapes in is pink champagne.
Interesting.
But apparently there's something like three million bottles
of red wine are set aside every year just to make rosé champagne.
What a waste.
Man, I'm really changing your mind about champagne.
No, you're not.
I'm going to.
Emily likes rosé.
Rosé champagne?
No, I mean, she'll have that, but just still rosé.
There's also rosé with gas that's not champagne.
It's just a little gassy.
It's kind of different.
Yeah, I'm just not a fan of all that stuff.
Yeah, I love it.
Yeah.
And it's not like I discriminate against wines either,
but I definitely prefer champagne or sparkling wines over still wine,
like any day of the week.
Yeah, we're the opposite in more ways than one.
Are we at the Riddler yet?
Because this is my favorite part.
So we've got the blend.
And once you blend it, you have to put in bottles.
And one of the things Chuck about the AOC, this method champagne was,
is once you put in that bottle, it stays in there until the person who buys it
and drinks it takes it out.
You have to keep it in the same bottle.
Yeah.
All right.
Yeah.
Why would you switch bottles?
That'd be weird anyway.
Well, you used to want to decan it to get sediment out.
You might just put it in one bottle to reuse the bottles.
Who knows?
Yeah.
But once you put it in the bottle, it's got to stay in the bottle.
And after that initial QV is blended, they put it in the bottle and they let it sit.
And depending on what kind, what kind it is, if it's non-vintage,
it's going to sit there for 12 more months for a total of a minimum of 15.
Yeah, at least.
If it's non-vintage, it's going to sit there for another three years and just age in the bottle.
That's right.
And so at this point, you're going to start, you want the bubbles.
So you're going to start that second fermentation process by adding sugar and yeast.
Then you drop the temperature on your cooler to about 50 to 60,
which is cooler than the initial fermentation process.
And well, you can also do this in the tank, like there are different methods.
Right.
That's called the Charmette method.
The tanks?
Yeah.
But I think the Old World method is, well, jeez.
You can't use tanks.
You got to use bottles.
And I don't even think Old World is the right term.
That's oldish.
I'll just say old.
But I think Old World means something very specific with wine.
Oh yeah, I can see that.
I think it means non-Californian.
See, this is where we get in trouble.
So this is a very slow fermentation process, the second one.
And the yeast is living and dying and those cells are breaking apart.
And it's this really interesting process is going on inside that bottle.
Yeah.
It's eating up all that sugar that you added and what's called the liquor to Tyrage.
Right.
And when you add that in and you add the yeast in the yeast, you're like, this is great.
We're going to live here for generations, eons by our timetable.
Yeah.
Like look at all this delicious sugar that we can eat.
And they eat it and eat it.
And they eat all of the sugar in this second fermentation process.
And what we're doing here now is recreating those, that natural fluke of a condition where
it would get cold and then warm up again.
Yeah.
And that second fermentation process would start to make the CO2, same things happening
here, but this is a very controlled version of that.
Sure.
So the yeast is eating it.
And like you said, they're dying and breaking open.
And so when you're drinking champagne, part of what you're drinking are the internal remnants
of yeast cells that have spilled their contents into the champagne.
That's why I don't drink it.
But they also leave behind some stuff you don't want to drink, which are the cell structures.
And that creates what's called sediment.
It's basically leftover cellular structure of yeast cells.
And you want to get that out.
Yeah.
And that's through a process called riddling.
And I mentioned the riddler is my favorite person in this process.
It's a pretty thankless job to be the riddler.
Is it?
I think so.
I'll bet you get a lot of free champagne.
Well, sure.
That's thanks.
Yeah.
But it's very solitary and redundant.
Oh, yeah.
Repetitive.
Yeah.
So this riddler, the wine at this point is stored upside down at a 75-degree angle.
And that is allowing all these dead yeast cells to collect down near the neck.
They, by hand, go in every day and turn these bottles one-eighth of a turn.
20,000, 30,000 bottles.
I saw up to 40,000.
A day.
Yep.
They do this by hand.
Yep.
And they're just rotating these.
I can't imagine doing this.
I mean, it's your life's work.
You've got to really be dedicated to your craft to be a riddler.
And it takes about four to six weeks of this dedicated attention.
It's a very fast process, though, if you've ever seen a riddler at work.
Oh, yeah.
You know?
But they have to remember that they turn the bottle so they make a little chalk mark
on each one 40,000 times in a day.
Yeah.
Man.
It's amazing.
So they're turning the bottle, and like you said, it's turned up at an angle.
And the whole point of this is that you're slowly, because you don't want to disturb the
champagne, it's still maturing, right?
But this is toward the end of that maturation phase, either that 12 month or that 36 month
minimum.
And as you're turning it, what you're doing is kind of shaking the bottle a little bit
too.
And you're just trying to get the yeast cells, what's left of them, to move toward the neck.
Yeah.
Right?
And the whole point is, this is called maturing on the leaves.
And the leaves, I think, are what the sediment is called, possibly, or else what the...
Yeah.
I think that's what it is.
Okay.
I think.
And as it goes down and accumulates toward the front of the neck, you now have one of
the last steps called the decor gorgement, or disgorgement.
Yes.
And what you have is just a thing of sediment that's accumulated at the neck, and you put
it in a nice bath.
It's really amazing how they do this.
Yeah.
What they used to have to do is they would pop open a bottle, decant it, filter it, and
they would pour it back.
So it's filtered.
Because one of the things you'll note about champagne is it's very clear, and it undergoes
several different clarification steps, but that would have been one of them.
This is the same thing, but this one is way cooler.
They put the neck in an ice bath, a salt ice bath.
So you know it's really cold, because you know salt lowers the freezing point of ice
water.
Yeah.
And at this point, it's going to create a little yeast plug, which is so gross up there
toward the neck.
And what they have to do then is get that plug out of there while maintaining the integrity
of the rest of the wine that's inside.
Yeah.
Like you're going to lose some champagne.
It's not a perfect procedure.
Well, yeah.
I mean, that's part of the process is to lose some, because then they add stuff back in,
which we'll get to.
So they remove, well, it says it in here, the cork, but these days, I think that initial
one is a cap, like a bottle cap.
Right.
Bottle cap.
You can use that.
Old world bottle cap.
And you know, go on YouTube and look at a Riddler at work and just check this out.
It's pretty neat.
Like it's a fast process as well.
Did you see how it's made on that?
No.
They pop it out, and a surprisingly small amount comes out.
Like I thought it'd just, they'd be like, oh God, oh geez, like it'd be the most stressful
job in the world.
But it, you know, enough comes out, it's foaming over, but it's not like just a tremendous
amount.
And then they smell it to make sure it's not.
The dude I saw would put his thumb over it real quick, so like it wasn't foaming over
at all.
Maybe that's what I saw.
Or maybe that's what he was doing, I didn't catch it.
Yeah.
Pretty interesting though.
So the Riddlers is doing this by hand, because there's, you know, carbon dioxide gas in there
at this point.
And it forces that plug out, and like you said, you lose just a little bit.
Then you add maybe a little brandy, a little sugar, a little white wine back in to get
the, you know, the proper amount of liquid inside the bottle.
Right.
That's called the dosage, or the liquid dosage.
Don't call it dosage.
No.
Because I did in my head.
Yeah.
Or like half of this research.
Yeah.
And then you're, oh, oh, that is dosage.
Well, that's when it helps to watch videos.
Yeah, for sure.
And then they put that final cork in place.
This is one that's going to stay in there until you uncork it.
And they tighten it down with that wire, as are not so great article points out.
You can make into a little chair afterward.
Yeah.
That's what people do, right?
Sure.
And, you know, you have to have that thing on there, because it, like, there's a lot
of pressure still building up in that thing.
Right.
And actually, thanks to a 18th century French pharmacist named Antoine Beaumé, he came
up with a device to measure the sugar content in wine.
So now they know exactly how much sugar to put into the champagne to raise the pressure
back up.
Right.
Because you want about five or six atmospheres of pressure, or about, I think, 60 to 70 square,
or pounds per square inch of pressure in a bottle of wine.
How much?
50 to 70, I think, or 50 to 90.
But it's definitely five or six atmospheres of pressure.
Yeah, I got 90.
90, okay.
It's like kind of average.
Okay.
So they know how much of that liqueur dosage to put in, how much sugar to put back in to
raise the atmosphere back up.
And the other reason you want to do that too, Chuck, is when you're adding that sugar back
in, that yeast, all the sugar that was in there, and turn it into carbon dioxide that
you put in for the second fermentation.
And when they did, they made the champagne as dry as a bone.
An extra brute?
So the amount of sugar, it's actually more than that, it's called brute naturel.
Well I call it a double X brute.
It's crazy dry.
I've never had it, but I can only imagine how dry it is.
Can you have that?
Yeah.
Oh, really?
So they don't put in any dosage, they don't add any sugar afterward, so it's bone dry.
And that's just for people who really prefer that, because it's not, apparently the extra
brute is the least popular.
Yeah, I can imagine.
And I think the best-selling is sort of that brute, which is sort of in the middle of dry
and sweet, or sec, or demi-sec.
And then I think the last one is due, DOUX is the sweetest of all.
Non-brute?
Yeah.
Non-brute is drier than extra dry, which is kind of surprising.
But if you ever...
It's pretty easy to pick up if you just read it once or twice, you're like, oh, okay,
that's how it's denoted.
But all of that is based on how much dosage you put in after you disgorge the yeast plug.
Engorge.
Yeah.
One of my least favorite words, by the way.
That's a bad one.
Is this true about Madame Clicquot?
From what I saw, yeah.
She was an entrepreneur famously, in fact, she's called Widow Clicquot at times.
She was Widow at a very young age, sadly at 27, and took over her husband's wine business
and supposedly invented that disgorging process herself, which is, I mean, it's kind of simple
when you look at it, but I wouldn't have thought to do it.
No, but again, I mean, they were decanting them back then, filtering it out.
And this was, I think, 1813 when the Widow Clicquot came up with it.
And about then is when Champagne, the drink, took off, at least in France and started to
spread very quickly around the world.
Yeah, Napoleon had a lot to do with that, right?
I think Napoleon did.
By World War I, Winston Churchill reminded everyone, we're not fighting to save just
France boys, we're fighting to save Champagne, hurrah!
Should we take another break?
I think so.
All right.
Let's take a little bit about what the fuss is with this stuff after this.
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All right, so Josh, the master winemaker has walked us through the process.
What a great job that would be.
Yeah, my friend Robbie is kind of a rock star winemaker in Napa.
Is that right?
Yeah, it's pretty great.
He's living a good life.
I'm sure.
In fact, he got in touch at one point because he wanted to start a wine podcast.
And we emailed back and forth and he just wanted advice and stuff, not like he wanted
to start one with me because that would be one of those podcasts called when someone's
a super expert and then you got a big dummy.
I can't think of anything.
That's what that would have been.
Man, that was just ripe for jokes.
I would have been the Thomas Saden Church to his Paul Giamatti.
Oh, you're talking about sideways.
I thought you were talking about wings for a second.
I would have been like, when are we going to drink it?
Tastes good to me.
And Robbie would be spitting it out.
I don't think you should do that.
He's very talented and he does quite well like making wine for other people and he also
has his own label, Langevin and Pearson Meyer wines, plug plug.
And when you go to his house and stay with him in his awesome guest house at the top
of Howell Mountain, you get drunk on amazing expensive wines that he opens like you're
drinking that Perrier.
I'm sorry.
How are you?
No, this is Pellegrino.
Oh, excuse me.
That's the Italian version of Perrier.
It is.
It's like the...
Like Spumonti.
Perseco.
What's Spumonti?
Spumonti is Italian.
Is it?
It's sparkling, right?
Yeah.
I guess Perseco is Italian as well.
I just remember that from when I was a kid, Martini and Rossi, Rossi, Spumonti.
Yeah.
It's amazing how that's drilled in my brain.
Martini and Rossi, Rossi, Spumonti.
Which probably is like sparkling wine, isn't it?
I don't know that it's good.
I don't know.
I mean, I think that's probably what gave you your headache.
That and all the low and brow.
Is that still around?
I don't know.
Isn't that what Bob and Doug drank from Strange Fruit?
No.
No, they drank some sort of...
Was it made up?
No, they drank Molson?
Well, is it Lebat?
I mean, it was probably some Canadian beer.
We're going to get killed over this one.
Yeah, we are.
Sorry, everybody.
All right.
So let's move on then to what makes champagne so expensive and so fancy.
Like it has this notion that you drink it for celebrations or that you're like sort of
the upper crust of society if you're drinking champagne.
Well, supposedly there is an actual reason why champagne is associated with toasting
the big events in life because for a thousand years from about the ninth century to the
19th century, the kings of France were coronated in champagne.
So it was like a celebration town for the whole country.
So toasting with, even before they were sparkling wines, toasting with champagne wine was traditional.
So have you ever been in a restaurant and like gotten good news and said, waiter, champagne?
Go son.
Has anyone ever done that?
Besides in movies?
I don't know.
Maybe.
Yeah.
It's funny.
Like I was watching, I was watching McConaughey act and I was watching a movie on somebody
else's seat back on a flight.
So I wasn't hearing it.
So I was really just watching the movie, right?
And I was like, imagine if you were in real life around Matthew McConaughey, like in a
room with one of his characters and just how off-putting and bizarre that experience would
be, you know, because he just said, he just choose the scenery and everything he does
is just so big that in real life, if you were interacting with that character, you'd
be like, calm down, man, you're freaking me out.
Well, Wooderson was pretty chill.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Okay.
But everybody since Wooderson.
Pretty much.
All right.
Boy, that's an interesting thing to think on a plane.
Just hit me.
It hit me on the plane.
I think if I was in a restaurant and something great happened, I would say, waiter, another
gin and tonic.
And they would go, huh?
They'd probably say, you got it.
Actually, I started calling those lime salads at my house.
Nice.
So you got gin and tonic now?
Yeah.
That usually happens around April.
Oh, yeah.
April to, you know, September.
I got one for you.
Gin and bitter lemon is a nice combo.
Yeah.
Yeah.
And I thought bitter lemon was just like a fever tree drink.
Yeah.
They make them and they make a good one, but everybody from like Canada, dry to whoever
else makes bitter lemon as well.
So just give yourself a good bitter lemon and some gin.
You're going to love it.
You're going to love it.
We should do a, we'll definitely do a podcast on gin at some point.
Okay.
Very interesting liquor.
Yeah.
Complex.
Can be.
Sure.
I got another one for you.
With that bitter lemon.
Uh-huh.
If you want to get really fancy, get some St. George terroir.
Yeah.
I'm not a fan.
You had the dry rye.
No.
Did you, you tried the terroir one?
Yeah.
It's the one that tastes like feet.
No.
That's the dry rye.
I've tried all three of those St. George's and I don't like any of them.
Oh, okay.
I'm a London dry guy.
Well, anyway, you'll still like it with bitter lemon.
All right.
Everyone else would like the terroir St. George with bitter lemon.
Everyone else on the planet because, all right.
And I figured out what was up with the dry rye.
You're absolutely right.
Make a martini out of that stuff and kill you.
It's not made for it.
It's made for things like negronis.
It makes a killer negroni.
It's really good.
Yeah.
I stick to my lime salad, you know.
You know me and my basic needs.
But try the bitter lemon sometime with gin.
Okay.
You're dry London.
It's fine.
All right.
Okay.
But with the bitter lemon instead of tonic.
Okay.
I'll give it a try.
And if I don't like it, then I'm just weird because everyone else in the world loves it.
I'm not saying that.
You said that.
All right.
We're in the world of worry.
So we were talking about what makes champagne so fancy.
Yeah.
Well, like we said earlier, it's a very small region comparatively speaking.
So that will lend to the price and all these hand processes that they still might use are
foot processes.
That's a big one.
It's going to make it more expensive.
And anytime the price is being driven up, it's going to have that sort of air of, you
know, sophistication.
And then of course, when the hip hop scene started kind of using that in lyrics and popping
champagne on the yacht and the videos.
I'm on a boat.
What was that?
That was the Sarant Life short.
Oh, okay.
With the...
Oh, I think I remember that.
I don't remember who it was.
I want to say two chains, but I don't think it was.
Gotcha.
Was it one of those Andy Samberg shorts?
Not Lil Wayne.
Who's the other Lil?
Lil Bow Wow?
No.
He's just Bow Wow now.
Really?
Yeah.
He's all grows up.
Man.
The guy who was like, yeah, yeah.
That guy.
I have no idea.
You do.
Lil John?
Yes.
Jerry was over there going.
It goes Lil John.
Yeah.
Yeah, I'm not...
But yes, it was at Andy Samberg short.
Yeah.
I do.
I think I do remember that.
I kind of solidified the sort of, you know...
Status?
Yeah.
Sure.
That's exactly the word.
I would suggest...
I mean, it was already.
Right.
Solidified.
But it definitely didn't hurt.
No.
Especially in the States here and with a whole new generation of people.
Right.
Right?
Like the younger generation, it's like champagne.
Whole new generation of humans.
Right.
But then all of a sudden Lil John's like, got some champagne.
No, for real, I'm sure the champagne industry was like, seriously, keep doing it.
Sure.
So, the thing though is there's actual reason behind champagne being more expensive than
your typical wine.
But that doesn't mean that all champagne or all sparkling wines are out of your price
range.
No.
I mean, you can get some cheap sparkling wine that'll give you a massive headache.
That's good.
No, no.
That's not true.
You can get some wine for 20 bucks and it's not going to give you a headache.
I was talking about the $6 bottle.
Good stuff.
Yeah.
But 20 bucks, I mean, if you're going to spring for a decent bottle of wine...
Sure.
If it's New Year's Eve?
Sure.
Why not?
That's when I'll toast it.
All right.
So, 20 bucks will get you a good bottle of decent champagne is what you're saying.
Yes.
Not bad.
You can spend hundreds of dollars, thousands, tens of thousands at auction, just like wine
if you want some super rare collectible wine or a champagne.
Apparently, a quarter of a million dollars for a bottle at the Moscow Ritz Carlton.
And that's not even something you drink, right?
If you're a jackass, sure.
But I mean, if you're here to be a jackass to spend a quarter of a million dollars on
a bottle of champagne anyway, you better drink it, frankly.
But champagne, you don't keep, right?
You can.
You can.
And so there's a lot of misunderstanding about it, right?
So a lot of people think that you keep champagne standing up.
You do for about the first month, but if you're keeping it in a cellar, you want to keep it
on its side like any bottle of wine.
You want the wine touching the cork.
But the reason that champagne actually ages in the bottle, it's just like wine.
That cork, it's in there pretty good, but it's not airtight.
There's a minimal amount of gas exchange going on.
So the wine, the champagne continues to mature over the course of 10, 20, 30 years.
Really?
If you keep it, the key to champagne, apparently, storing it is you want to avoid temperature
fluctuations.
You want to keep it at about the same temperature for the whole time you have it stored.
So bury it in your backyard.
Sure.
On its side.
Deep.
And leave it there.
Yeah.
And you will find that all the worms drank it.
You'll be like, worms.
Bury it under the frost line.
And you want to keep it out of the sunlight too.
Well, underground.
But apparently as it ages, I've never had old champagne, but as it ages, its taste starts
to mellow and it takes on dried fruit, nutty, toasty, honey notes or like the main notes
that it hits.
Yeah.
We had a bottle of Dom Perignon that was awful when we opened it, but we didn't.
It was every improper thing you could do.
We did.
So including moving it in a hot truck from LA to Atlanta.
That's funny.
A hot moving truck.
Yeah.
I don't know.
I mean, we just don't drink it much.
So we just had it.
Emily got it as a gift.
If that happens, you just put some fresh squeezed orange juice in there.
It's fine.
Boom.
Then you got a mimosa.
Yeah.
I'll have a mimosa occasionally.
That's champagne.
I know.
And orange juice.
Yeah.
That's the key.
With the orange juice.
Well, I mean, I enjoy mimosa more than just regular champagne.
It's like a whole, it's definitely one of those things that's greater than the sum of
its parts.
Yeah.
I don't think I ever said, Chuck, that those two quarter of a million dollar bottles of
champagne were from a shipwreck that was headed to Russia to bring champagne to the
czar's family and the shipwrecked.
They discovered it in the 90s and now they're selling it at the Ritz Carlton.
To what did you say?
Jackasses.
Jackasses.
And I think that's the one that's like a collector's piece, right?
I don't know.
You like to put it on your wall.
It's nothing.
I don't know.
I don't know what you do with that.
Besides, just drink it and hope for the best.
Well, should we talk about drinking it in the proper way to open it and to pour it?
Yes, please.
And consume it?
Yeah.
Because if you don't know what you're doing and you've seen too many movies, you might
try and pop that cork out across the room.
It's very dangerous.
It is very dangerous.
And people get injured, right?
Are there deaths, I think?
I didn't see any.
Or is that like an urban legend?
I would guess an urban legend, but I could be wrong.
I'm thinking if you died from getting hit with a cork, you had a pre-existing condition.
Is that covered?
I don't know.
Under Obamacare, sure.
I guess we'll see.
So you'll get about six flutes if you're pouring properly out of a bottle of champagne.
You want to serve it between 40 and 45 degrees.
Celsius or Fahrenheit?
That's Fahrenheit, right?
I don't know.
If you are caught with your pants down at a party.
Just go champagne, and it'll get you out of anything.
And you want to chill it very quickly.
You can put it in an ice bath and not to get out that yeast plug, but just to make it
cold fast, just like you would beer or something.
The neck, you mean?
No, no, no.
The whole bottle.
If you want to serve it.
Oh, sure.
You got a hot bottle of champagne in your moving truck, throw it in an ice bath for about
20 minutes, and you should be good to go.
Yeah, if you...
There's a party trick you can do too, where if you put just the neck in the ice bath,
you can use what's called a saber.
You can actually use anything.
I've seen somebody do it on video with a shoe.
Yeah, you don't even have to freeze it if you're a good saber.
Yeah, but you kind of want to.
You want the neck very, very cold because you want the glass to just crack off cleanly.
Yeah, and what the deal is, if you've ever seen someone...
What's called saberage, we mentioned earlier that the champagne bottle is very thick because
it's in there at about 90 PSI.
Where the seam meets the lip, it's about 50% less glass, and so that's a vulnerable area,
and that's what makes sabering possible.
And so you use, well, like you said, you could use a shoe, I guess, if you're that guy.
Right.
But there's traditional sabers.
They look like a little sword.
They are a little sword.
They just aren't ground to a point or an edge.
They're very blunt because the point is using blunt force on a weak point of the neck of
the bottle.
Yeah, but you can use your, like a saber can be sharp, you just use the other side of
it.
Okay, all right, sure.
And I mean, it's pretty neat to do because you're not, like, I think for a while, I thought
you were just knocking the cork out.
That's what I thought as well.
But you're knocking the glass off.
Yeah, the top lip of the bottle is coming clean off if you're doing it correctly.
And that is also dangerous if you don't know what you're doing because that thing will
fly, you know, 15, 20 feet or more.
And that's actual glass.
What you want to do is have a sharp shooter handy to shoot it out of the sky before it
hurts anybody.
That's right, and have everyone stand behind you.
Yeah, that's the traditional way.
That's how you really open it is, and this is a, even if you're not just popping the
cork, you might like twist the cork off.
You want to twist the bottle.
That's sort of the number one rule to open it cleanly and non-dangerously and without
champagne, you know, getting all over the place.
Like when you open a tonic bottle or soda, anything fizzy.
That's one of our traditions backstage at Stuff You Should Know Shows is Josh opens
a tonic bottle.
Let's get it all over myself.
Spews everywhere and you go, what's the deal?
Yeah, every single time.
I think because I have so many lime salads, I just, I know you got to go easy with those
tonic bottles.
I do, and it still will spray me.
It's almost comical, almost.
No, it's pretty funny.
So you're twisting the bottle.
If you have a towel, you can hold it over the cork, but you really don't need it as
long as you're kind of holding it with your hand.
And twist that bottle, put your thumb in the punt, as they call it, which is at the area,
the bottom of the bottle.
The divot?
Yeah, the punt.
The concave part.
Yeah, the punt.
Sure.
Put your thumb in the punt and then you've got it open and you tilt the glass, portence
a little bit, pour a little bit more.
You want about three quarters of a flute and put your pinky up and go to town.
Yeah, and I did a brain stuff on what the best kind of glass for champagne is, and apparently
the tulip is.
It's a combination between the coop and the flute.
You've probably seen it before.
No, I didn't see that one.
Oh, I thought you meant the opposite.
The tulip glass.
Yeah, I've seen tulips.
But apparently they allow for the most sparkle.
And if you have the, so the bubble's coming up, the French call effervescence, and if
you look at a glass of champagne that you're just holding there in front of you, when they
bubble up to the top, they accumulate into a foam.
And that is called mousse, like chocolade mousse.
Remember top secret?
Oh yeah.
Yeah, but it's not that, it's just mousse is what they call it, or foam is another way
to put it.
Yeah.
That's what they call it.
And so actually when you're creating the second fermentation process of the champagne
making, what the method champagne was, it's called the prized mousse or the foam creation.
Wow.
There's a lot.
And that's why you pour it slow too, because if you go too fast, it's going to get everywhere.
Yep.
Like your tonic.
And then you pour it three quarters full and you toast and say, I think is the traditional
thing you're supposed to say.
So you like champagne yet?
No, it's just not for me.
That's fine.
I don't feel bad for me.
I won't then.
If you want to know more about champagne, go get you some.
And in the meantime, you can type that word in the search bar at howstuffworks.com.
And since I said search bar, it's time for listener mail.
All right, I'm going to call this one, well, getting the nomenclature correct.
Something we always strive to do and don't always do.
Hey guys, let me start by saying you've been listening to your show for two years.
You've added so much joy, laughter, and knowledge to my life.
Know you're always intentional and sensitive about the language you use on your show.
And while listening to the MS episode, I noticed something I've heard you two say in the past.
I work in suicide prevention and hope to change the culture and reduce the stigma around suicide.
As you know, one of the first steps of doing that is examining the language we use.
The phrase commit suicide is very common, of course, and has been used for a very long
time.
The word commit makes it sound criminal.
This perpetuates the stigma that there is something bad or wrong with someone who is
experiencing thoughts of suicide, making it less likely that they will reach out and ask
for help.
I want to encourage you guys to use the word died by suicide or completed suicide as an
alternative and more factual term.
The American Foundation for Suicide Prevention is a great resource for more information.
And of course, I need to plug my own nonprofit I work for, notmykid.org.
I appreciate everything you guys do.
Please come to Phoenix.
I guarantee you will sell out a show there.
Sincerely, that is Sarah Tisdon, aka Hope Dealer.
Oh, wow.
Just dealing hope.
That's a heck of a aka.
Yeah.
And you know what?
I never thought about that.
But that is not true.
I'm going to try and use that.
That is not true.
You have.
Have I?
Because we've been called out on this before.
Really?
Yes.
But I think we've even done a listener mail on it before, but it's so ingrained.
I know.
To say commit and then completed just sounds like they finished their homework or something
like that.
Right.
But died by suicide.
I can get behind that and I will try.
But it's just so hard not to say committed.
What though, if you're saying, if it hasn't happened, you're saying someone was going
to.
Attempted.
I was thinking attempting suicide.
Okay.
Yeah.
I think that one's kosher.
All right.
Man, I didn't know we've covered this.
So I feel bad that I still haven't gotten over that then.
Yeah.
Same here.
Yeah.
Same here.
Thanks for calling us out.
Hope dealer.
Yeah.
Appreciate that.
Thanks, Sarah.
Keep dealing that hope.
Open up your trench coat and be like, this is what I got.
Right.
I'll take a lot out.
I got hope right here.
If you want to get in touch with us to correct us, prod us, whatever, lay it on us, send
us an email to stuffpodcast.iheartradio.com.
Stuff you should know is a production of iHeartRadio.
For more podcasts, my heart radio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple podcasts, or wherever
you listen to your favorite shows.
Hey, I'm Lance Bass, host of the new iHeart podcast, Frosted Tips with Lance Bass.
Do you ever think to yourself, what advice would Lance Bass and my favorite boy bands
give me in this situation?
If you do, you've come to the right place because I'm here to help and a different hot,
sexy teen crush boy bander each week to guide you through life.
Tell everybody, everybody about my new podcast and make sure to listen so we'll never, ever
have to say bye, bye, bye.
Listen to Frosted Tips with Lance Bass on the iHeart Radio app, Apple podcast, or wherever
you listen to podcasts.
I'm Munga Chauticular and it turns out astrology is way more widespread than any of us want
to believe.
We find in Major League Baseball, international banks, K-pop groups, even the White House.
But just when I thought I had a handle on this subject, something completely unbelievable
happened to me and my whole view on astrology changed.
Whether you're a skeptic or a believer, give me a few minutes because I think your ideas
are about to change too.
Listen to Skyline Drive on the iHeart Radio app, Apple podcasts, or wherever you get
your podcasts.