Table Manners with Jessie and Lennie Ware - S4 Ep 6: Tim Dowling
Episode Date: November 14, 2018This week we speak to Author, Guardian columnist and part time rock star Tim Dowling. And we see how Mum’s obsession with this charming (albeit slow eating) columnist comes a little too close to Kat...hy Bates in ‘Misery’. We delve into the truth behind his relationship with his wife, TV dinners and the perfect brunch. And I realise I eat far too quickly.Produced by Alice Williams Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Hello and welcome to Table Manners, the podcast that is about oversharing and...
Overeating or undereating.
I'm Jessie Ware and I present this with my mother.
Hi.
Who still doesn't really understand why she's doing this.
Yeah.
Who have we got? I feel like this is over to you. This is basically...
I'm so excited
This is your night mum
This is my gig darling
I love this person
I have read his column religiously
For probably about
Four or five years
Bit upset that they moved him from
Page one to page
No page two to page three
I don't know why would he be upset about that Because it was just over the page they moved him from page one to page, no, from page two to page three.
I don't know, why would he be upset about that?
Because it was just over the page and he was the first one when you opened the page
of the Guardian Weekend magazine, his column.
And I always felt very reassured to see him.
Just his meaty stuff.
Right, he also has a bit of an angry face,
but actually when you see,
he looks a bit cross on his
his photo for his column but actually he's got the most lovely gentle voice he's born in Connecticut
so he's got this lovely soothing American voice and he doesn't sound like he looks which is a bit
cross and his columns sometimes a bit cross what's his name mom
you haven't introduced his name is tim dowling and he's a columnist for the guardian and he has a
book called dad you suck he's incredibly funny i've been through all his troubles with his car
with his three teenage sons with them going through school, passing exams, going to university. Being ill on holiday.
Being ill on holiday and his wife not even noticing that.
He also, you'll like this, Jessie, he also plays the banjo.
Not that you play the banjo, but he is in a band called Police Dog Hogan.
Police Dog?
Police Dog Hogan.
It's probably a bit American, darling.
Okay.
He is very, very funny.
He is funny.
And I do want to know whether
he actually likes his wife me that's the first question she can't be that bad she can't be and
she must okay the columns also someone else I'm really interested to find out about Constance
have you ever Constance pitches up she's the daughter of one of his oldest friends and she's
kind of imagine a young woman in her 20s.
And she pitches up and just bosses him around and takes the wife's side.
It's very funny.
What is on the menu tonight, Mother?
Actually, I should be telling you.
I feel like I've done most of it tonight.
I beg your pardon.
Main course?
Two sides.
Okay.
And pud.
Yep.
I win.
Okay, you do your sides then.
No, you start it off.
No.
Maybe people are more interested in sides than the main thing.
I think my sides are quite sexy.
Okay.
I've made a chicken, mushroom and tarragon pie.
So what have you done for sides?
It's an autumnal night, so I've done...
What kind of beans are they?
They're actually runner beans.
I thought they were bobby beans.
No.
Bobby's never been near those beans
that's very good uh i've done them with shallots cooked shallots and butter and i'm going to mix
a bit of mustard through that and then i've just roasted a whole bulb of garlic so when it goes
really sweet and i'm going to add that to mashed potato wow shut up you're
not that impressed no I do I am it's kind of a lovely meal that yeah I'm up for it I know it's
like we should have had gravy is it gonna be a bit dry it's not because I've put loads of stuff
in the side the pie it's kind of it's a white sauce once the mushrooms cook they'll all kind
of give off their own juices and then for pud I've done stewed plums
and blackberries because blackberries are really great at the moment and I've stewed them in sugar
and lemon and bay leaves because I do love a bay leaf and I have the biggest bay leaf tree
and I've bay tree sorry and I've actually done Dolly Alderton's mascarpone ice cream
that's in her book
I don't know if it's good
it tasted delicious when I made it yesterday
but I've put it in the freezer
and then I'm going to crumble
I'm sorry I haven't done my own crumble
we've got some stem ginger
biscuits that I'm going to whiz in the Nutri-Villette
and then sprinkle over
and that is what's going on
sounds delicious
sounds like my kind of cozy
meal tim dowling coming up on table manners
hi i'm a huge fan you don't know how excited i am really Oh, just grab a chair and sit down, yeah.
Tim, can I get you a drink?
Would you like a glass of red?
White.
I brought you some wine.
Oh, you're so sweet.
Yeah, once my wife yelled at someone that came to the house saying,
if you come to the house, you're meant to bring wine.
And I wrote about it.
And for some reason that week they made that the headline.
It just said, when you come to dinner, you're meant to bring wine.
And that was the sort of headline.
And someone on Twitter linked to it and just said,
Tim Daly came to my house and he didn't bring any wine.
So now we know.
I don't know this person at all.
But then her face did look quite familiar.
And I suddenly realized, yeah, I came to your house like a decade ago.
So now I bring wine everywhere just in case.
We need to talk about your wife.
We're desperate to know.
She can't be that bad.
Well, it...
Your poor wife.
She does say...
She's got a t-shirt on that says, save me.
She does say, you know, I know what I'm like.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Thank you so much for being here.
Thanks for coming.
Cheers.
I mean, that's not our entire relationship.
I hope not.
But it's, you know, it's a couple of hours a week.
Is she the boss in your family?
Oh, yeah.
Mum, come on now.
Okay.
She gave me a tremendous hard time.
She's trying to hire a car for next weekend.
Where are you going next weekend?
To the south of france
it's sort of a second holiday to redeem the other holiday
it's weird that you know this much about me but i guess that's my fault yeah it's your fault well
you did you ever did you go into this thinking you were going to be writing about your family
no writing books about no being a husband and a dad
and i don't know i did it sort of briefly many many years ago when my children were tiny for
for a different newspaper uh and it was sort of all right but i didn't really think i thought
it was really short and it was just a sort of tiny thing i was filling in for someone i thought
this is quite good but it'll never last You kind of accidentally stumbled upon talking about your family.
I took over the column, I took over the space about 11 years ago,
and I only got one email from the editor about, it just said,
I don't want you to feel like you have to write about your own life.
And I thought, well, that sounds like an instruction, and I won't.
And then it was about three months before I had to take over,
and I had a long time to think about what it would be about, and I just ran out of time, and I won't. And then I, it was about three months before I had to take over and I had a long time to think about what it would be about
and I just ran out of time and I panicked
and I wrote a column about the dog and the cat
following me around the house all day.
And then I thought, I've got a week now
to get my shit together.
And I wrote something that wasn't about my life
and then the next week for that I panicked again
and I wrote about an argument that my wife and I had
and I thought, I'm gonna get fired for this like three weeks in. And then Christmas came and you have, I panicked again, and I wrote about an argument that my wife and I had, and I thought, I'm going to get fired for this, like three weeks in.
And then Christmas came,
and you have to write all these columns ahead of time,
and I didn't have anything to write about at all,
so I just wrote one.
By the end, I was writing about arguments
we were having about the column already.
And finally, I sort of, around Easter,
I sort of settled into a sort of pattern
where I thought, this is the kind of thing I can do.
It's got nothing to do with my life. It's kind of of political it's topical and uh I got another email from the
editor that just said it just said what happened to the funny wife so I sort of it's my fault I
was stuck with it does she read the column yes because I want to know whether she accepts
what you write about her well the the aim of of the whole thing is to make her laugh on Saturday morning.
So for that reason, if she doesn't laugh at it, then I've done something wrong.
Okay.
But also for that reason, I tend not to show it to her ahead of time.
Because I want it to be a surprise on the Saturday.
How lovely.
Have you ever...
Sometimes when it does go wrong, it goes bad wrong. I think I might have to turn a surprise on the Saturday have you ever sometimes when it does go wrong
it goes bad wrong
I think I might have to turn my pie down
okay
so you're from Connecticut
yes
I am
have you watched Gilmore Girls
I have
because I'm obsessed with it
are you
I've just started it on Netflix
have you never watched it
how far into it like series two I mean I've just started it on Netflix. Have you never watched it? How far in are you?
Never watched it.
The best.
Like series two?
I mean, I had to go, Colton.
I had to start.
Yeah.
I was obsessed too.
I can't stop.
I love Luke so much.
Lorelai annoys me a bit when she's a bit like witty.
That's why it's so addictive though, isn't it?
It's not because it's good.
It's because there's something about it that you-
It's the charm.
You have to see the next one.
I want to live in Stars Hollow. Yeah. and did you live in a place like stars hollow not really
not really but you live somewhere did you live like in a place like schenectady how do you say
it as a connecticut person do you know that's connected oh yeah that one yeah it's in upstate
new york oh so it's not really Connecticut. Okay, forgive me.
No, I don't think I've ever been disconnected.
But where were you when there was the terrible flood at your dad's house and you had to go out in boats?
That's in Connecticut, yeah.
It's Norwalk.
It's a little bit of Norwalk called Roatan,
which is a sort of shore town
inside the New York commuter belt.
So on the train, it's only 40 minutes into New York.
So growing up there, was it kind of wholesome?
And would you have lots of pecan pies and pumpkin pies?
Pumpkin pie, yes.
Pecan pie is a bit southern.
I'm sure we had some.
Oh, is it?
I think it technically is.
Right.
That could be because of the pecans.
Okay.
Or pecans, I think. Yeah. Oh. That's what my of the pecans. Okay. Or pecans, I think.
Yeah.
Oh.
That's what my mother would have said.
Oh, really?
Pecan.
So what was growing up in Connecticut, like food-wise?
Well, I thought it was really, I mean, to me, you know, the bit of Connecticut that I'm from is the kind of,
this place stands in for sort of soulless conformity and the death of the soul in almost all fiction.
It's where they film Stepford Wives there.
The original.
I watched them film it when I was eight or something.
Revolutionary Road, they film there.
Oh, okay.
You know, it's about, it's where people, where people's lives go to die.
Die.
But I didn't feel like it was like that.
It was like, it was all various sort of hot dogs and hamburgers.
There's a beach
and a little beach cafe do you miss american food i do i don't miss it when i'm here but when i go
back i go through i have to eat everything that yeah so what's your first meal that you'll have
when you're the first and i might go i'm trying to maybe go back before christmas uh i think i
would go down to reweight and Pizza and order a pizza straight away.
What would be your toppings?
Sausage.
Okay,
but like fancy sausage
or pepperoni?
In America,
they just say sausage.
Okay.
And it's not pepperoni.
You don't really know
what meat is.
No,
it's a spicy,
meaty sausage.
Yeah,
I think they call it
sweet Italian pork sausage.
Yeah, it's good.
Yeah, it's great.
Which I love.
With peppers.
It's very hard to get here. You can't get it here, no. And it's great which i love and it's very hard to get yeah here you
can't get it here um and it's not posh it's not expensive it's probably quite gross really good
there it's you know it's not the best in the whole world but it's what i'm used to and if i go into
new york i'll go to one of the ones down in bleaker street john's in bleaker street if it's still
there every time i go to new york i think
is this what's it called it's called john's best yes it is there okay and you get it by the slice
yes yeah and they have the sort of original coal-fired oven yeah yeah no it's really good
we're going to new york are you yeah yeah we're taking it to the states yeah so growing up were your family foodies or was it no i wouldn't know not
really my mother cooked but we ate separately as children oh and that very sort of except on
sundays when we all ate together in the dining room okay and that always turned into a bit of
an etiquette lesson so it was kind of a drag you know and what's sunday lunch in america
brunch oh it's brunch it's not like rose rose no we would always have brunch and it would be you
know a weirdly early time to eat or a late time to eat what would be on the brunch menu brunch
would be waffles pancakes sounds great bacon i love brunch i love it it's my favorite very bad
reputation but i think that's because...
Not in the States.
Brunch has got a bad reputation.
In the restaurant game in the States.
Oh, yeah.
It's that sort of...
Except in California, everyone does brunch.
I mean, people just don't seem to eat breakfast or lunch.
I didn't know it had a bad rep.
Also, my wife hates brunch.
You see?
We almost wanted her to come.
We should have done brunch for you.
Yeah.
Yeah, well, she would have been furious.
What are you going out this time for?
I was like, well, it's brunch.
What's the problem with brunch?
It's fabulous.
I love brunch.
It just means you can be a bit more greedy.
Will your wife do a big Thanksgiving dinner?
No.
What the hell?
No, she won't.
We've done it.
I think we've had Thanksgiving
maybe in the
25 years I've lived here
maybe twice
but it's the best meal
on earth
it means that you can
have Christmas
also you have to do it
on the Friday
or the Saturday
because if you do it
on the Thursday
everybody's just got to
go to work in the morning
oh yeah but not in the States
but not in the States
in the States
everyone's home
for the weekend
it's sort of free for all
don't you have any
American mates here
that can sort you out?
I've tried it.
That's why I might go home.
I'd go home.
Yeah, I would.
I might go home alone.
Go home alone.
Don't you're killing me, Tim.
It's really sad.
I'm getting really depressed.
Well, I'll have fun.
We didn't think she was as bad as this.
No, she's not.
We didn't.
She'll be furious now.
I would have given her a bit of pie
but I'm not
no
she's dead to me
if she doesn't let him celebrate Thanksgiving
everyone you know
if I go places with her
everyone really likes her
I mean everybody
only ever wants to meet her
you're kidding
when I do book talks
people say
is she here
and then when I say no
is she gorgeous
she's lovely yes
is that what you fell for because she's just fabulous looking no I fell no. Is she gorgeous? She's lovely, yes. Is that what you fell for?
No, I fell for her because she was really mean to me.
You like it.
It's usually girls that like that, not boys.
I know.
Treat a mean people keen.
How was she mean to you?
Jessie, we've read the bloody comic.
No, I want to know if it started that bad.
I met her in New York in 1989.
Right between Christmas and New Year. she was visiting some friends of mine who mutual friends friends of hers friends of mine but i'd
never met her before and the mutual friends we had there was two these two girls who lived together
in the village and by the time i dropped around, they were fighting. And they'd gone downstairs to scream at each other.
Nice apartment, two floors.
And so my wife was down there trying to broker some kind of truce
because we're all meant to go out somewhere.
And the first time I saw her, she came up the stairs
and she lit a cigarette at the top of the stairs
and she said, it's like a fucking Sartre play down there.
I'd like that.
You thought, this is love.
But then we went out for drinks
and she was really sort of mean to me the whole evening.
Okay.
But Bea, you can't have people being mean to him all the time.
It's his wife, so he decides that.
Now look, I need to know about Constance.
How naughty is she?
She was around last night, actually.
She's quite grown up now.
Explain to me Constance
How old is Constance? I don't, Constance
must be 26, 27
And how do you know her for the listeners that don't know about Constance?
She is the daughter of a friend of ours
who we've known
since she was born
When she was born we lived in
flats on the same road
off Portobello Road
so we would sort of babysit for her
so we've known her her whole life.
She's very bossy with you too.
Very, very bossy and very, very loud.
But she's kind of, I mean, that was just sort of...
She comes in and sits down and opens a bottle of wine
and will criticise him.
Yeah, I had to fire her from the column, actually.
When you say you fire her, you don't write about her anymore?
Do you know what? I think he's playing us.
I think he's doing the column.
They can't be as bad as all this.
They're not.
I think he's doing...
I mean, you know,
the nice bits I don't think anybody really wants to read about.
You think?
Yeah, no, you're right.
Holding hands, looking at the sunset.
Nobody wants to see it.
I kind of do.
at the sunset.
Nobody wants to.
I could too.
Who does most of the cooking in your house?
Well, my wife would say
that she does.
Just the other day,
I have to say,
we have a sort of standard recipe
in our house
which no one has
any real affection for
called spicy ricey
which is just what you have on Sunday
when there's nothing left
but there is a bit of bacon
and there is some celery
and there's
there's just
it's just odds and ends
and some rice
Jamie Oliver's probably
going to make a package
of that soon
he should be so lucky
but when I make it
it's
there's my recipe
and my wife's recipe
even though we invented it together
when the children were tiny
spicy ricey
my version has veered
away from her slightly and I think my children prefer it what do you add i sort of i sort of
fry a bit of cumin and turmeric at the beginning wow uh i'm a little bit more generous she's yeah
she's a bit like the war's not over yeah it's just more English
to have sort of less
of everything in it
parsimonious English
yeah
and
and I don't
she puts
smoked
paprika in it
until it's a very
brick red
sometimes that can be
too much
and I've decided
I
we had a thing
where we sort of
went mad
for a smoked paprika
and
I've just fallen out of love.
I put too much in one of my dishes at the weekend and it ruined it.
Yeah, it's quite easy to go too far with.
Would you say spicy rice is your...
No.
Your signature dish?
No.
What's your signature dish?
My signature dish.
That's a very good question.
My signature dish, I suppose, is linguine with clams.
Oh, vongole. Linguine vongole. is linguine with clams. Oh, vongole.
Linguine vongole.
What's it?
Vongole.
Vongole.
Where do you get your clams from?
That's a good question.
I don't do it that often because they're quite hard to get a hold of.
But there's actually, Acton Market has a very good fish guy.
Do they?
And if he's got cockles, just as good.
I don't know what you're saying.
They're better because they're more like...
Do you get them in the shell and everything?
Yeah.
Although if I'm feeling fussy, I take...
When I do the clams first, I take...
I take about half of them out of the shell.
I love fongole.
I've never been bothered about cooking mussels or...
I don't know, it kind of freaks me out,
even though it's quite a simple thing, right?
Yeah, it's easy. You just steam them mean the thing that people freak out about to make sure
they open is to make sure they open yeah and to make sure that you haven't put any dead ones in
so you know you tap them if any if any of them are open while you're cleaning them if you tap
them against the sink they'll usually close up if they're alive and if they don't just been i mean
i always err on the side of caution i throw a lot of probably live ones away do you like parmesan
on seafood pasta i do do i know it's really bad my wife does yeah but i know it's really bad i like
her too now she doesn't care i care very much about how things you know when I'm in Italy
yeah
I won't drink cappuccino
because
why
because
it's sort of
I mean I would
I would
in private
but when you go to a restaurant
everybody else drinks espresso
and it's a bit of a
yeah it's sort of
novelty drink isn't it
yeah
it's really
it's all about how I think
you know
how I feel I'm going to be perceived
I want to be thought of
as more of a gourmet person
than I am,
so I pretend.
When you're there, do you say ciabatta?
Or will you say ciabatta?
Ciabatta.
You know, I had an Italian app for ages,
and I thought I was going to go and speak,
but I mean, it was just hopeless.
I'm such a panicker.
So, your mum wasn't a great cook?
No, she was a very good cook, but it was quite plain,
and i think
we ate a lot of stuff like that i haven't heard of before since like cube steak which is cube steak
it's a sort of very tough cut of meat i don't know which one which has been run through a machine
so that it has little cube shapes all over it oh it's like when they bang it yeah yeah but i think
they just had a you know at some factory somewhere it was all run they bang it to tenderise it. Yeah, but I think they just had a, you know, at some factory somewhere, it was all run through.
So it was probably started out life like that.
And it's quite like, it's about...
So was it a lot of kind of meat and two veg?
Meat, meatloaf.
Oh.
Meatloaf was very good.
Now we're talking.
There's no flies on my mother's meatloaf.
It was great.
What's the ingredient?
Yeah, we want the recipe.
And could we have it for our cookbook?
I don't know how to make it.
No idea. Get the recipe. Is it written written down anywhere i'll check with my sister because there's a did
you have it with the tomato sauce on top did she put eggs inside there were eggs in it yeah
uh what like whole eggs yeah sometimes people do them like whole eggs like fancy like pork pie
that's like diner meatloaf now i mean it's now like all this kind
of millennial meatloaf which is much nicer than millennial meat that's what i was gonna we need
in the cookbook so what what was your favorite dish that your mother cooked you she used to do
i mean the thing is we always what we really loved was anything from you, anything pre-prepared. Like TV dinners.
We love TV dinners.
TV dinners.
Did you have little trays on the side of your, of the sofa?
You know, they're like...
We did own a set of them.
Yeah.
Little folding tables that, I think there were six of them.
And you could sit them.
They were stacked and you could pick one off.
But we didn't do that.
Okay.
Very often. Didn't you sit around the table to eat? you could pick one off. But we didn't do that. Okay. Very often.
Didn't you sit around the table to eat?
No.
Only on Sunday.
We sat around the kitchen table.
And then my parents, actually weirdly, my parents ate in their bedroom.
Oh.
For years.
Why?
Because they had the only, because they ate at a little sort of garden table in their bedroom.
Because the only TV in the house in those days was in their bedroom
were you allowed to go in no not while they were eating so we were eating they would they would
sort of serve us and then so how did you have your tv dinners well later i think like four in a bed
no i think no because no later we got other tvs okay uh we got a kitchen tv
and then we had a sort of you know done up basement or it was actually half the garage
had been garage i should say garage had been taken over and made into a sort of playroom
so we had a tv there tv in the kitchen and mainly we would have tv dinners when my parents would go
out because my parents went out to dinner once a week.
Always.
Where would they be going? With my uncle and my aunt.
They went to Chuck's Steakhouse.
Or they only went.
There were only three places on their list.
Chuck's Steakhouse.
Chuck's Steakhouse.
And down in the sort of mini mall,
there was a restaurant called Lock, Stock and Barrel.
Oh, wow.
Lock, Stock.
there was a restaurant called Lockstock and Beryl.
Oh, wow.
Lockstock.
And then there was sort of,
there were a couple of restaurants in,
right in the sort of village of Royton,
one called Higgins'. But I don't think they lived there very often.
Was that like a diner?
No, there was a diner called Henry's,
which is now a really, really fancy seafood place.
Tim, can I just say something?
That on your photo, you look cross.
And you look rather angry on your column photo.
And you're not at all.
You're a rather gentle person.
Thank you.
It's a backhanded compliment, I think.
Your photo stinks.
No, I don't think it stinks.
But you look angrier than you are.
You're not an angry person.
So she's suggesting you change your profile.
Maybe you should, because you're rather an attractive man.
I'm hanging.
Who's got a very gentle manner.
And I think it doesn't come across in the photo.
That's the great thing about a podcast,
is everyone's sort of obliged to believe you.
I'm sweating profusely.
I'm slightly embarrassed for my mother now.
Don't be embarrassed.
You're in a band.
I am in a band.
Because Jessie sings as well.
Yeah, I heard.
What's on your rider?
What's on our rider?
It used to be
like an iron
and tea making facilities.
That's not a rider.
And then it made it sound
like we were going
to a travelogue.
And I thought,
so I think we've upgraded it
so that it has
like some craft beer in it.
Which craft beers do you like?
Well, local.
You let them choose.
Yeah, that's a good one.
That's a good one.
Because it creates a sense of initiative in the venue.
I like that.
We've got that.
But very often you don't get anything.
You think, did they get our rider?
And you play the banjo.
So what's the band like?
What's the sound?
It's very, very hard to describe because it's i mean we've
we used to say that it was like i said it was like pop music but with all the wrong instruments
because everybody has quite sort of you know everybody grew up listening to sort of pop and
punk nobody has a sort of proper country music i'm from connecticut it's not the cradle of bluegrass
is it no so a lot of it, like when I
first started learning the banjo,
I didn't really know any banjo
music. And when I started listening to it,
I thought, I really, I don't
like a lot of this. You know, it's
quite, it's terrible.
Lots of people hate the banjo.
I quite like it. There's some brilliant
banjo stuff out there.
So I think we,
it's a sort of country, now they say Americana.
Okay. Americana's easy
because it's very hard to get
kicked out of. But you played Glastonbury.
We did play Glastonbury, yeah.
What stage were you on? On the Avalon stage.
That's a big deal. That's amazing.
It was lunchtime. So what?
You got the free ticket and it's Glastonbury.
I think so what was our attitude, yeah.
Will you be playing the...
Is it the 50th anniversary next year?
They need to get in touch because we might not be available.
Why?
What are you going to be doing next year?
Well, next year...
I mean, the thing about festivals is they start to...
Right about now is when they start to sort of start asking.
Bloody hell, they're not asking me.
Jesus.
When did you get asked, Tim?
That's early. I know. but sometimes they ask you from it's because they had you last year or two years ago and they want
you back so they're sort of they start to feel out your availability do you write your own music
yeah do you sing i am not the main singer but i sometimes sing he's got a lovely voice i'm not
you do a good time but i can't i don't know what you're supposed to, I think you say,
I can't sing, but I am a musical.
Just you. Oh, it's fine.
I'm sorry, I'm going to let mum do this, because
she says I do it like a dinner lady.
Maybe I'll just get the Dijon.
I don't know. Do you like condiments? I'm fine. Are you fine are you sure delicious yeah I don't know that it is let me put my glasses on
because we might not get Jesse why have you got ladle there why have you got Tim's book on the
like because I have my I have my notes as well my notes post-it it's like my house it's like my book
you can imagine I have shit loads of coffee.
Pardon.
What if you need pepper and salt?
I don't have pepper, I'm really sorry, I do have salt.
And I can't keep using the excuse that I've been on tour.
When did you get back?
I mean, I've been in and out, it's just that the house is a shithole and I keep being like
to my husband, babe, it's because I've been in and out
of the country on tour.
It's like I'm constantly living out of a suitcase.
Do you feel like that in the summer?
Yeah, it doesn't go down very well at my house.
As the fiddle player said to me, he said,
whatever you do, don't say that it's work.
Because everybody's, you know, my wife think,
he's got a lovely harpy that she really enjoys.
It's a hobby that you're, you know, it's not even a hobby.
It's a job.
Yeah, I can't say that.
You're playing Glastonbury.
I feel like that's a... Actually, the one we're worried about is Shepherds of a Shempire.
You're doing Shepherds of a Shempire?
When?
March.
Headlining it?
It's our thing, or it's the promoter's thing.
We're headlining it in the sense that
a warm-up band has been hired.
Well, Table Manners listeners,
your band is called...
Police Dog Hogan.
Why?
When we first started,
we'd just played our third ever gig. In fact played our sort of third ever gig.
In fact, it was my first ever gig.
I wasn't in the band for the first two gigs.
Why weren't you?
Why did you miss them?
Well, the second ever gig, I went to see them.
I was like...
A fan?
In the audience, yeah.
Well, fan.
I just thought one of them was a friend of mine.
I thought, I am such a good friend going to see his weird midlife crisis band.
And I thought they were great.
And I was like, I want a piece of this.
And I could sort of play the banjo.
But I'd only had the banjo for a year or something.
And I was struggling with it.
But none of them played the banjo.
You got in.
They didn't know how it was supposed to sound.
So I got in, went to a bunch of rehearsals.
And they said, we've got this gig.
Went to the gig
it was down in
it was in Cornwall
to save some village hall somewhere
and
we
one of us
who was a travel writer
had blagged
two days of recording
at a residential recording studio
the only one left
amazing
one of two
I think it's not
not the one in Wales
no that's
rock
something wasn't it maybe this is called Sawmills and it's not not the one in Wales no that's rock something wasn't it
maybe
this is called
Sawmills
and it's where
Oasis recorded
definitely maybe
and things
and you can live there
and anyway
you can't
you have to be
taken there by boat
so we're sitting
at the pub
waiting for the boat
to come and get us
that's fun
yeah
it's on the river
of Foy
and it's not
accessible by road
so they just come up river a bit it's on a creek
and the fiddle player who in his spare time is a barrister was telling us this story about looking
at a police statement for some case the police statement was about a riot and there was this
person in the statements called pd hogan andogan. And he said, you know, he said,
oh, everyone in the police department has this two initial thing.
You know, people are called DCI, PDC.
He said it probably stands for police detective or probationary detective.
He didn't know it, but he thought it would become clear later.
And so they go to the riot with P.D. Hogan,
and there's P.C. Martin, P.C. someone,
and they attend the riot, but they leave P.D. Hogan and there's P.C. Martin, P.C. someone and they attend the riot
but they leave P.D. Hogan in the van.
You think?
He must be a probationary inspector.
They've left him in the van.
Oh no, he was a police dog.
And anyway, the riot got worse
so they went and collected P.D. Hogan.
P.D. Hogan was brought to the van
and then at some point he began to vocalise.
And he said, what does that mean?
And eventually P.D. Hogan bit someone
and that's when he realised
that he was called
that it stood for police dog
and we loved that story
what a good name for a band
and at that point everyone said
yes it is a good name for a band
and I think we've all had cause to regret it
it doesn't really go with what I feel like
Americana music kind of
no I know it sounds a
bit like i mean i think a lot of people think that we are serving police officers i think it's
really good good yeah and can we put it in the pastry uh i didn't make it why bother what you
can get it there yeah i never have i mean can you imagine you imagine Paul Hollywood would be... But would he?
Other sorts of pastries.
Yeah.
Maybe.
Do you go out on dates together?
Yeah, darling, they really go out.
Yes.
Where's your date spot that you go to? But not very often.
The cinema. We can do the cinema
I've read about that one
Why? What happened at the cinema?
Went in the afternoon
Sounds perfect
I don't always remember what I've written
Probably about four or five years ago
You went to the cinema in the afternoon
And what happened? I can't remember Probably about four or five years ago. You went to the cinema in the afternoon.
And what happened?
I can't remember, but I think Constance might have come with you.
Naughty Constance. I don't like this story.
Is it slightly worrying how much my mum...
She's basically like a misery, Kathy Bates.
You're not going home tonight.
Mum's going to break both your kneecaps.
It's hard.
I suppose it's hard because you...
No, but you write...
I read you every week.
It's my favourite column.
That's the thing.
Even when I write it,
I don't expect people to read it every week
because, you know, people miss them.
People think...
You know, so people say,
oh, how are your dogs?
And I think, well, one of them died three years ago.
Where were you?
Yeah, I know.
Or, you know, they say,
how's your column in The Observer?
And I say, it's not in The Observer.
It's in The Guardian.
People, you expect a certain sort of fogginess about what you write,
because obviously even my friends
don't read it every week.
I do.
My children don't read it every week.
I do.
But how special to have this collection,
this chronicle of your life,
and for your family too,
especially for your kids to kind
of grow grow up they can if even if they won't remember it's just there's i've often wondered
about that whether they would appreciate it or not and actually we there was a i think when the
book came out there was i did a cover piece for the magazine and they got my oldest son to write
something for it and he was very sweet about
it like the idea that it was a sort of family record well it's funny because I I've started to
write with my two years of being a parent like I write my daughter a letter every birthday and I'm
going to kind of do it until I don't know maybe she's 21 I don't know and what I find is that I'm
being really generous to her because obviously I'm'm like, these are the great things.
This is what happened this year.
But really, what I want to say is, don't say to me, shoo, mummy.
That's her new one.
But instead, I kind of, you know, I rose tint it maybe.
No, she's amazing and I adore her.
But I kind of, I love the fact that it's kind of warts and all.
And it's funny and it is funny and and it's those kind of everyday stories that just are familiar for
everybody you know I yeah I think that's what makes it work in a way I think the weird thing
is I always said something bad will happen to me really bad will happen to me and I think this is
gonna be great and then you sit down to write it and it just doesn't
it just doesn't
it doesn't work as well
as ones where you're struggling
because absolutely
nothing's happened to you
you think
what am I going to write about
you sit down
you have no idea
and you think
I can't write a whole thing
about you know
the cat being sick
it's just
it's not enough
and it turns out
I mean you can
if you
Kathy Bates over here
thinks you can
if you're desperate enough
you can and you will and you will over here thinks you can. If you're desperate enough, you can and you will.
And you will do it again.
And I think that's...
Do they mind you writing about them?
Do they say, Dad, you make me sound like a real idiot?
Yeah, they have said that.
I've heard that exact quote.
Or, Dad, you sound like a real idiot.
Or, Mum sounds so terrible.
I think in a weird way, me being the butt of the joke is the
sort of is the sort of whole point yeah and from their point of view that's more or less how our
family works anyway yeah so it's pretty natural for them it's quite I mean when they were little
they never read it they didn't I don't I'm not even sure they knew there was such a thing happening
so what do you think is your...
What's your worst table manner in somebody else?
I don't really mind.
I suppose people who chew with their mouth open.
Yeah.
But then I'm worried that I chewed with my mouth open earlier.
Me too. Now, yeah, I might have done.
But I'm not...
I'm not that fussed.
I always think it's me, you know.
What's your worst table manner?
Well, historically...
You're a bloody slow eater.
I guess I'm a bit of...
My posture's poor.
And I used to be...
I used to get in trouble for not switching.
Switching?
Oh, your knife and fork.
You know, in America, you're meant to...
You cut like that,
and then you put everything down,
and then you put this hand in your lap,
and then you pick up with that
what
do you cut it up
all at the beginning
or cut bits up
as you go along
that sounds so time consuming
no wonder you're a slow eater
that sounds bloody time consuming
I don't do it
because I'm left handed
and also
I moved to here
where you don't do it
thank god
the sun eats with you
that's stupid
I love America
but that's stupid
I'm not sure that
it's a very
it was always
A very brutal
Was that kind of
When you're talking
About etiquette
On a Sunday
Brunch
Would it be
Learning to eat
Yes
Properly with your
Knife and fork
There was all
Sorts of things
NIL
My mother used to
Always say
NIL
What's that mean
What's that
Napkins in laps
Or hands on laps
When you're
I've been putting
my elbow on the
bloody table
oh yeah
elbows off the table
what's yours
FHB
family hold back
yeah
yes
which I've never done
Jesse can't
I can't follow
that rule
are you a puddings
person or are you
a savoury person
I like both
I quite like making puddings.
Oh yeah?
I had to make all the birthday cakes growing up.
Oh really?
Because my wife can't bake.
She can cook but she can't bake.
Buttercream icing?
Yeah.
The other day I was going to do
the one that has meringue in it.
What's that one?
It's a sort of Italian buttercream.
Oh Italian buttercream and it's got meringue in it.
I looked at the recipe and I thought it was too hard. You have to sort of make sugar syrup. Oh, Italian buttercream and it's got meringue in it. I've looked at the recipe
and it's too hard.
You have to sort of
make sugar syrup.
Anything where you have
to put that thermometer in.
Oh, I don't have time for that.
How is it we often have
closet foodies on the podcast
and we don't know?
Closet food is probably fair.
Speaking about puddings,
are you ready for your pudding?
I feel bad.
But I feel...
Yeah, move that, Charlie.
I've left this now.
Do you know the writer Dolly Alderton?
I know who you mean.
So Dolly was a guest and I read her book and she does, yeah, mum's just saying the recipes.
And she had this one called mascarpone ice cream, which I don't have an ice cream maker.
It's really good.
You basically, four egg yolks, mascarpone, icing sugar and vanilla essence.
I did it last night.
And you freeze it.
And it's really good.
So it's...
Dolly will have that for the cookbook.
Because it's mascarpone, it doesn't need to thicken up or anything.
It's just...
Thick.
It's thick.
It's really good, right?
Yeah, this is amazing.
Like, really.
And then...
And what's this crunchy stuff?
Oats.
It's a cheat.
I just shushed up
some stem ginger biscuits
in an Ootsie bullet.
I'm sorry.
It's a bit come down with me.
I don't think that's cheating.
Oh, it's great.
If you get the bullet out,
that's cooking. But the plums and blackberries are done with um bay leaves and some lemon zest it's got you
which you just get a hint of don't you it's quite a little bit last supper we ask all of our guests
what would be your last supper I mean I know I know I said it before but when I am in Italy or
anywhere where I think it's going to be good, I will have linguine alla vongole.
Yeah.
Would that be your starter?
It's your last supper.
Yeah, let's say that.
Let's say that.
I'm going to have that as a starter.
And then...
Your mum's meatloaf?
Yes, that's a good idea.
What would the sides be?
I really like rice. Do you? Yeah. With meatloaf. Oh stop.
Are you mad? You can't have rice with meatloaf. I know that I go. This is my last supper.
It's him doing what he likes. Okay. He's dying. You're dying. Exactly. Okay. Criticise. What
sort of rice? Well I kind of like plain white rice. My friend Shahen who's in the band showed
me how to, he got furious with the way who's in the band, showed me how to...
He got furious with the way I was making it.
He showed us how to make rice.
And then we made it with the recipe on the website.
He is Armenian by extraction.
Am I good at rice?
He lived most of his childhood, I think, in Iran.
Oh.
I've got an Iranian rice cooker.
Have you? Yeah.
That you plug in.
Would you call it Persian?
Well, it's Persian.
It's Persian and Iran are the same place, darling.
No, I know that one.
Do you?
Okay.
Piss off.
Yeah.
Okay.
I've got the Persian rice cooker.
So you get the crispy tagliatelle.
Yeah, he does that.
Yeah.
He does that.
I was at his house a couple of weeks ago and he does that.
It's amazing.
And you turn it out like a big rice cake.
Yeah, I'll have his rice actually.
It's fantastic.
So that's going with the mum's meatloaf.
Yeah.
And what's the veg?
Or are you even going to have veg?
Something you've grown.
Yeah, I'll have the runner beans
through my little slicing thing.
Okay.
Yeah. Quite nice. It changes the whole notion through my little slicing thing. Okay. Yeah.
Quite nice.
It changes the whole notion.
Because they're stringy then.
There's something else to think about too.
And I'll take you off your mind.
And I think with very little fashioning, I could probably break out a prison with it.
Oh.
Because it's quite sharp if you can get the top off it.
Prison break.
I like this.
This has got exciting.
This is always going to be, this is why the last meal wouldn't be that.
Yeah.
I find it hard to concentrate.
Do you like pudding?
Mm-hmm.
Okay, so what's your pudding going to be?
It's strawberry shortcake.
Oh, that's so American.
It is really American.
You're really not.
And it's quite hard to come by.
And if I want it, I sort of make it myself now.
Isn't that what?
It's just shortcake with strawberries on.
Yeah, and whipped cream. Isn't it? And whipped cream. That would be my idea of heaven. and if I want it I sort of make it myself now isn't that what it's just shortcake with strawberries on yeah
and whipped cream
isn't it
and whipped cream
that would be
my idea of heaven
I completely understand that
really
it's amazing
a buttery biscuit
yep
with some lovely
fresh strawberries
this shortcake
is a sort of
it's not the same
as Scottish shortcake
no
oh
it's like what
Americans call
drop scones
yeah
okay
and what are you
going to oh so it's like. And what are you going to... Oh, so it's like a...
I know.
What are you going to drink?
I could drink white wine.
Are you going to finish with a cappuccino or an espresso?
I think it's my...
I'll have an...
Well, how do I want to come across to the people...
I don't think you want to be too wired up at this point.
You might not go for the drop.
Maybe just I'll have a cappuccino it'll last longer you want to care
about how you come across on this not how like to my jailers okay execution okay yeah tim can i ask
your uber rating um i don't know it okay can i help you find it you may have to yeah I mean oh wow this is good what is it 4.71
shit that's good
is it
that's really good
I'm
I'm 4.47
how can you be 4
Jessie
you must keep them waiting
no I don't
I'm 4.
do you have to judge them
every time
and say that they're great
I always give them 5 star
me too
and a tip
do you know last week
I was at a party.
What are you?
4.71.
4.71.
That's really high.
I'm 4.62.
You should be really proud of yourself.
But that's just not using it very often and not making very many mistakes.
A couple of weeks ago I was at someone's 60th and I got very, very drunk.
And?
And I came back in the Uber and you know that thing, they look at you and you look at them
and they're like, are you going to be sick in my Uber?
And I'm like, of course I'm not going to gonna be sick so then you do a chat to make myself seem
normal normal you're not the whole way back i know but you think you're doing it and then i
got up and i said well thank you very much good night and i got up and i walked and i fell into
the road in his headlights you know so when i stood up i was just like facing his headlights
like that I still maintain
there was a pothole there
but
I got in
and I thought
it's never occurred to me before
but I thought
he's going to give me
he's going to do
you know
I'm going to have to tip him
so I got online
and
did you
with one eye
you know
with one eye shut
like that
so I could read the screen
oh my god
I'd love this
I tipped him five pounds
oh my god
five pounds
I never tip
five pounds
that could be why
maybe you were 5 before
And he's dropped you
What he dropped me because I'm such a bootleg
Or
You went up because you gave him 5 pounds
I mean I wasn't sick in his cab or anything
I did just fall down in front of him
Yeah but then you try to make like small talk
And he's probably just like mate I don't want to speak to you
I was 4.63 two weeks ago
I was 4.45 so I'm really happy
I went up 0.2 so I'm really happy. I went up 0.2, so I'm really happy.
Well, I'm thrilled.
Are we more dysfunctional than your family?
No, I don't think so.
Ah.
But, you know, we're used to it.
This hasn't fazed you.
I mean, I've been polite, actually, holding it back.
And Hannah's not here.
Yeah, Hannah's not here.
Well, that was lovely, the food.
Fantastic.
Oh, no.
But thank you so much for being such a good support
and coming on.
Not at all, at any time.
And she's not that bad, is she?
No, she's not.
I know she isn't.
Everyone likes her.
Yeah, and she's gorgeous.
She's lovely.
Yeah, you see?
26 years.
26 magical years. 26 magical years.
26 magical years.
Yeah.
Mum.
Yes, darling?
I feel like you just really enjoyed yourself.
I did.
I had a great time.
I don't think his wife's as bad as he says, though.
I think he really loves her. I think he really loves her.
I think he does, too.
Yeah.
And I think she really loves him.
I think she must do.
To tolerate the column?
To tolerate his slow eating.
God, they must have very long meal times.
Two and a half hours a night. I think he enjoyed it yeah i think he did menu worked i think
i think it did i don't think he was excited by it i didn't think he was as well it wasn't the
most exciting no as far as i yawn did it taste okay did you i was lovely mom yeah it's dead easy
as well uh tim dowling thank you so much for being a guest on our podcast very generous guest
very beautiful wine 2008 bottle of wine was it 2010 yeah i feel like that makes it really
impressive right and he said to me that's 10 years old he thought your wine was better than his wine
oh my shiraz it was like yeah i said it's 10 quid shiraz feel, even though you were a bit misery.
I was.
Just a bit intense.
Yeah.
Yeah, I think he got a bit frightened when I kissed him at the end.
He was shaking everyone's hands and I grabbed him.
Oh, God.
Poor man.
He's probably, like, shuddering in the cab as we leave now.
I'm so sorry.
Oh, my God.
Maybe you'll be in the column. I hope I'm not in the column.
Oh my God,
imagine if he's had
the worst time
and he writes about it. The music you've listened to on Table Manners
is by Peter Duffy and Pete Fraser
and Table Manners is edited by
the wonderful Alice Williams.