The Daily Show: Ears Edition - New York Fashion Week Hits the Runway
Episode Date: September 8, 2023New York Fashion Week hits the runway this week! Desi does a deep dive unpacking the history of NY Fashion Week, Dulcé talks about cultural appropriation in fashion, and Roy highlights Black trailbla...zers in the fashion industry. Also, Trevor sits down with iconic fashion designer, Dapper Dan.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
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You're listening to Comedy Central. It's New York Fashion Week, the semi-annual event when designers show their collections
to the world so fast fashion brands can decide which styles to rip off.
But unlike wet subway seats, Fashion Week hasn't always been in New York
Institution. It's had a long walk down the runway to get where it is today. It all started in France in the 1600s, which might not surprise
you, but back then Paris was very much not known for fashion. The French were
about as stylish as a crock wearing a fanny pack. At that time, Madrid was
actually the fashion capital of the world, and thanks to their tiny tapas they could actually fit into all all all the the the the the the same the same their their their. their. their. their. their. their. tape. tape. tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, ta, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, tape, ta, ttttttttt. is tttttttttod, today, ttoday, today, today, today, tttttoday, today, today, tttttoday, ttoday, today, today, today, todayir tiny tapas, they could actually fit into all the sample sizes. But everything changed for France when Louis 14th was kingified.
Louis turned France into a major power, and he wanted the threads to show it.
For him, fashion was essential to the monarchy's prestige.
I mean, no one wants to be executed by a guy wearing cargo shorts.
Louis's obsession built up France's fashion and textile industry
and soon turned Paris into the world center of fashion, which by default made
at the world center of cocaine and bitchy gossip as well. It was under Louis
that France established the idea of showing fall designs in the spring and spring
designs in the fall. So you can thank him for that trendy coat you're wearing in August.
Oof. Who knew faux fur was so hot? So you can thank him for that trendy coat you're wearing in August. Ooh.
Who knew faux fur was so hot?
France continued to dominate the fashion industry for centuries,
until World War II when Paris was under German occupation.
This grinded their fashion influence to a halt because A, no one could come to Paris to shop,
and B, Coco Chenelle was too busy banging Nazis to make any clothes.
I know, terrible, right?
But no matter how many times I remind them of this, the boutique still won't give me a
discount on a classic flat bag.
But Paris's defeat turned out to be a win for the American fashion industry.
The US seized on the opportunity to fill that gap quicker than a Forever 21 dress falls apart in the laundry.
In 1943, America held the first fashion week, or as it was known then, press week.
Started by a publicist Eleanor Lambert, it launched the careers of designers like Hattie
Carnegie, Norman Arell and Claire McCartell, whose claim to fame was inventing sportswear.
And by sportswear, I mean any casual clothing. Not the
a athleisure that you wear, even though your main exercise is getting a caramel frap in
the Starbucks drive-through. Three, four, five, oh, woo!
This tame fit is tough. Before press week, magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar were really all about European
designers.
They treated American designers the way they treated the Kardashians in 2010.
They ignored them.
But once Press Week started, they treated American fashion like, well, the Cardassians
now.
She said she'd eat poop to look good.
Should I eat poop? No.
New York Fashion Week became such an institution that fashion capitals like
Paris, London, and Milan soon added their own versions and they continue pushing
the fashion envelope to this day. You could only get away with severed heads in Milan.
If that was on a New York runway, everyone would just assume it was another murder.
As time passed, New York Fashion Week
became home of so many seminal moments,
like in the 50s when James Galanos popularized feminine glamour.
Or Adolfo, who gained fame in the 60s for his emphasis on accessories. And in the 70s, Norma Kamali introduced the sleeping bag coat.
Although, if you just wear your kid's sleeping bag, it looks almost as good.
As styles changed, so did fashion week itself. In the 70s and 80s, it turned into a nonstop party.
Shows were held
at nightclubs and celebrities started attending. By the early 2000s, celebs had become
a permanent mainstay. Sarah Jessica Parker, Paris Hilton, everyone was there. And that Hollywood
glamour is still present to this day. But what was Larry David doing in the front row? He looked
so miserable to be there,
he should have been on the catwalk.
Through the years, Fashion Week has had different homes in the city,
from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center.
But the most important place it's moved to in recent years
is the same place you get all your porn.
The internet.
Shows started live streaming and designers began inviting bloggers and influencers to events. This all democratized fashion and made it more accessible to the public.
Or at least that's what I tell my therapist when we're working through my online shopping
addiction.
I'm broke.
New York Fashion Week hasn't just reflected the changing technology.
It's also held a mirror up to society, from designers responding to the Me Too
movement to the ongoing fight for more racial diversity on to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to society, from designers responding to the Me Too movement, to the ongoing fight for more racial diversity on the runway. New York's been the site of progress for
trans models, disabled models, and body positivity, which is kind of the least the fashion industry
could do after telling women not to eat for the last hundred years. So now you know everything
about New York Fashion Week and how it came to be and how it's changing for the better. Now if you'll excuse me, I have some poop to eat.
Here we go.
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Jord, Jordy, anything to add? That's my day. Today is the official start of New York Fashion Week.
Or as New Yorkers call it, Thursday.
For more, please welcome to the show our newest daily show correspondent, Dulce Sloan, everybody.
to say, thuce.
What's the to' on, Dulce.
Thanks, D'Reilly. Thanks, D'Revier. Thanks, Drever. everybody. What's going on, do you know?
Thanks, Trevor.
Yes, it's fashion week.
And while we'll see some new looks, some things will never change.
For example, we know at least one model will fail at her only job, walking down the runway.
And that some designers are going to try to sell us clothes.
They fished out of a dumpster. But the thing, mmmto try to sell us clothes, they fished out of a dumpster.
But the thing, that gets the most attention every year is the cultural appropriation.
That never goes out of style.
Well, do you say for people who don't know, can you explain what cultural appropriation is?
Sure. It's when you take something that divines a culture that you're not a part of and profit off of it. The fashion industry does th. th. th. th. th. That is is is is is is is. th. th. A th. A th. A th. A th. A th. A th. A that th. A th. A that that thii. A that that that that that that that that thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, thi, their their their their their their, their, their, th. th. th. And, th. And, th. And, th. And, th. And th. And th. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thi. And thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii. And, thii. And thi. And thi. And thi. And part of and profit off of it. The fashion industry does it all the time.
They take from black culture, Native Americans, Asia, you name it.
I mean, the models even appropriate their body dimensions from the aliens in close encounters.
Yeah, yeah, but also, to be fair, not all instances of cultural appropriation are that
extreme.
Yeah, that's true. Not every person who listens to rap, or waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, toa, toa, toa, theira, toa, toa, theiriiia, to, to, the the to, to, the to, tapuia, tapa, to, toa, too, too, ta, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, too, t, t, t, t, t, t, t, t, t, isa, isa, isa, isa, is aa, is aa, is aa, is ao, is ao, is ao, is ao, is ao, isa, isa, isa, isa, isa, isa.a.a.a.a.a.a.a.a.auuuu.a.a.a.a.a.a.a.a.a, toa, ta, isa. Not every person who listens to rap or words a kimono or sings the chorus to Despacito
is trying to steal someone else's culture.
Well, that's good to hear because I love singing Despacito.
Well, you can definitely sing it because you know you look like a Puerto Rican.
Hola.
But sometimes it crosses the line.
Like when you get movies about white boys saving jazz,
or Molly Cyrus twirking.
Ugh.
Hell, cultural appropriation is the only thing Taylor and Katie can agree on.
Okay, but some people look at some of these examples and they think,
why the fuss?
Because, Trevor, it's shit when white people discover something that used to be considered ghetto.
For example, look at Big Butts.
I always try to.
Thank you.
Thank you. Big butts used to be considered undesirable, but since the Kardashians bought all
theirs, now everybody wants one.
Ooh, and don't get me started on dreadlocks.
When black people have them, they're discriminated against.
They even get fired over it, but when white people have them, clothes flat off the racks.
Look at this. This is a fashion show or is she an avatar.
Wait, wait, wait, go back. Was that Kendall Jenna? Baby, it's always
always Kendall Jenna. Yeah, you know what, do you say, I'm not gonna, I'm not gonna
I hear you and this is interesting because for me it's weird. Where I come
from cultural appropriation isn't really a big deal, right? My family's always trying to get my white friends to wear. They're their their their to their their their. their. their. their. their. their. their. thof their. th. th. th. th. th. thi. thi. th. thi. th. thi's th th thi, it's thi's thi's thi's thi's always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always always to th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. thi, thi, thi, thi. thi. thi. thi. thi. thi. thi. thi's thi's the the the the th the the the the the the thi the the the the the the thi thi thi thi thi th as white people trying to steal our culture, they think they're embracing it. Mm-hmm. And that's the attitude they got my ancestors over here.
These white men are trying to steal us, they're embracing us.
Come on!
Come get on this boat!
Okay, no, no, but wait, wait.
But it's not just Africa.
theymese. But in India, a lot of people loved it. OK, now, Trevor, Beyonce is a bad example because she's a literal goddess.
Come on.
Forget culture.
If Beyonce stole my identity, I wouldn't even press charges.
I'd be like, thank you.
It's an honor.
Here's my pin number, Beyonce.
Look, Trevor, this is about equality. If minorities were equal, they wouldn't worry about people taking their culture because
that wouldn't be all they have.
Look white people, if you're going to appropriate, take everything, take the good and the
bad.
You can take my struggle, too.
Get pulled over for no reason, get followed through a store, and the next time
there, the Black Lives Matter March, but don't the the the the don't worry about bringing that Pepsi girl. We drink Sprite.
Jose, Sloan, everybody.
We'll be right thou.
Welcome, to CP Time.
Oh, welcome to CP Time.
The only show that's for the culture.
Today, we'll be discussing black contributions to fashion.
Normally when we think about black fashion,
we think about church hat so big,
they block your view of Jesus.
What we think about those suits that Steve Harvey wears
that hog all the buttons.
Leave some buttons for the rest of us, Steve.
They keep them my clothes together with staples. But in actuality, the world of fashion
has been filled with influential and iconic
African-American designers.
Like our first trailblazer,
Zelda-Win Valdez, who was one of the first designers
whose clothing accentuated women's curves.
Before her, women's fashion covered up their figures with big-ass skirts the size of a carnival cruise ship.
Women would get lost, just bending over to tie their shoes.
Zelda's curve-flawning designs was so popular that Hugh Hefner asked her to design the iconic
outfit for the Playboy Bunnies.
I never went to the Playboy Mansion myself because I was married and I also have a severe phobia of rabbits. Never know where rabbits are hiding. If you can pull one out
of a hat, you can pull one out of anywhere. It's my ass. I don't want to be around
that. Another black creator of koutur is Stephen Burroughs. He rose to fashion
prominence in the early 70s during the disco. I was always confused by disco. I couldn't tell who was dancing and who was
giving me directions. But disco isn't just about the moves. It's about the fashion, which
Stephen Burles helped shape. He hung out at Studio 54 and was popular among its celebrity
regulars. He was the first to design clothes that were comfortable on the dance floor, even at 3 a.m.
Right when the cocaine hit so hard you thought you were the disco ball.
Cocaine was better in the 70s.
Burroughs also invented lettacing, which is when you make the material at the edge of a garment, curve and ripple,
like a piece of lettuce. I'll have to take his word for it because I've never eaten a piece of lettuce.
My favorite vegetable is caramel-covered popcorn.
And finally, our last designer brings us to the modern day.
Virgil Ablow, the first African-American artistic director at Louis Vaton,
and driving force behind this decade streetwear movement. He
made high-end fashion take streetwear seriously. You know, fancy logos, t-shirts,
chunky sneakers, hoodies, pretty much anything you're not supposed to wear to a
funeral unless you and the deceased had beef. Rest in peace, Spencer.
Miss Jordan's is stepping on your grave. Now don't be fooled by the term streetwear.
One of Ablow's biggest companies, Off White, sells sweatpants for over $300, and this luxury
undershirt cost $200.
Although I don't know why you would spend so much money on a shirt that ain't nobody
going to see.
You know how much I paid for my underwear?
Nothing.
A six pack of drawers fell off the back of a Walmart truck in 1987 and I never looked back.
So the next time you zip your fly and you're looking fly,
remember the African American fashion trail blazers who made you that blazer.
Now if you'd excuse me, I'm going to make my first shirt, retail price $10,000.
This old man has his debts.
Well, that's all the time we have for today.
I'm Roywood Jr.
This has been CP time.
And remember, for the culture, make me some...
Oh, damn. Somebody get me a napkin.
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Hey, I'm Ben Mycelus.
And I'm Jordi. We are the hosts of the smartest way to hire. Hey, I'm Ben Mycelus. I'm Brett Mycelus. And I'm Jordy.
We are the hosts of the Midas-Touch Podcasts,
the top-rated, top-watch podcast for pro-democracy content.
Every single day we release new episodes,
reporting on the issues that matter most,
without any of that both sides, so sick of. We also have conversations with incredible guests, like President Joe Biden.
Remind me, the best politics is truth. You're telling me truth.
Second gentleman, Doug Emhoff, Secretary Pete Budgege, representatives Jasmine Crockett,
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Jordi, anything to add?
Shout up to the Midas-Mighter! My guest tonight is a fashion icon who pioneered high-end streetwear catering
to gangsters, athletes, and musicians. His new memoir is called Dapper Dan,
made in Harlem. Please welcome, Dapper Dan.
Welcome to the show. Thank you. Thank you, thank you for having me. I'm so excited to have you here because I remember the first time I heard your name was in a rap song.
I remember rappers would rap abouttime I heard your name was in a rap song.
I remember rappers would rap about being laced up by Dapadan.
You know, people would talk about these threads from Dapidan,
it was an idea and it was a myth.
And now when people see you see you today the dressing people thinking people at the at the the the the the the the the to dressing people the th, oh yeah, this man's a fashion designer, but you didn't start in the most normal place.
You started making something out of nothing as a hustler.
Yes, exactly.
I started with nothing.
I was like, um, you probably say, you was born in crime.
I was born in crime.
Wow, right. Yeah, and so I had to adjust to life.
So I used the tools that was available to me.
When I wanted to open up a store, nobody would sell to me.
So I said, you know what?
I'm going to figure out how to do this myself.
I'm going to learn how to make fabric and do everything that the big boys do and do it better than they do it. You really, Yeah, man, you really,
you really did something that I don't think anybody thinks is possible.
I don't think anyone has achieved
in the same way that you've done.
For those who don't know, you know those like very fancy, fendy, fendy,
you know, all these designer clothes where you see like all the labels everywhere on it like Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Fendi, Fendi, Fendi, Fendi, Fendi, Fendi,
that was him.
So a lot of people don't know this about Dapidam, but you came along and you created, like
a street version of what these brands were creating.
You made your own version of Gucci, your own version of all of these brands, which became bigger than the brands for many black people.
You know what I did?
I, what they call me is the father of Logomania.
I looked at the brand, I looked at the department.
I say, wow, everybody's excited about the logo.
But Gucci is not making jackets.
None of these guys are making jackets in outfits.
I say, wow. If they're they they they they they they are they are they are they are excited they are excited they are they are they are they're they're they're their their their their their their their their their their their th. I'm thoom. I'm thoom. I'm their thoom. I'm thoomorrow thoomathea. I'm their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their their, I their, I their, I their, I th. I th. I th. I th. I th. I th. I th. I th. I'm that. I that. I that. I that. I that. I ta. I ta. ta. ta. ta. ta. tha. tha. tha. tha. tha. I tha. th and outfits. I say, wow, well, if they're excited with the bag, imagine if I can make them look like the luggage.
You have now gotten to a place where you're no longer seen as an outsider but rather a
trendsetter. You work with these fashion houses. They've teamed up with you. For instance,
you work with Gucci now, where they've said, those designs where people there was backlash on social media.
Yes, yes.
You team, why did you, why did you, why did you work with Gucci when many of people were
saying, you know, I did, I did a lot of research even before I got into the partnership and
I researched like Alexander the lead designer and I researched Marco the CEO and I know these men were genuine so I said what happened. I said, they. I they. I they. You you you you you you you you you you you you. You. You. You. You. You. You. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. th. thi. Why, why, why, th. Why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, the. Why, the. You. Why, the. the. the. the. the. the. Why, th. Why, th. Why, th. Why, th. Why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why, the CEO, and I know these men were genuine, so I said, what happened?
I said, well, I don't know what happened.
You know, if you shoot a guy by accident and shoot him on purpose, he's dead.
So I told him, you have to come to Harlem and we got to fix this.
You got to explain to people what they did, and they came.
So now we have the changemaker program, whereby Gucci is going to be to programs, we're gonna have inclusivity,
we got vice presidents now in the Bacolo,
and so it's a big program,
it's the change makers program, so we're gonna make a change.
And actually, what we're starting here with Gucci,
we need to move that on to other brands.
What do you think you wanna see change in the future in fashion,
now that dappeddan has a name and clout, What I really would like to see is that, you know,
culture is what moves fashion.
And you know, this hip-hop culture went global.
So if the culture can go global,
why can't the representatives of the culture
go global as well?
So that's what I advocate for.
I advocate for more people who make a contribution to the culture
that enables these brands to make to make to make to make to make to make to make to make to make to make.
contribution to the culture that enables these brands to make money to be inclusive today. Right.
Make that money, man.
It's an exciting book.
An amazing laugh.
Thank you so much for being on the show.
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